Spring Rebuild

[Henry/Kokomo]

I'm in the throes of rebuilding a front leaf spring (this is a first for me). The spring was disassembled and the leaves have been cleaned of the residue with a cupped wire wheel on an electric grinder. There were several places where the spring leaf "above" wore a pocket in the leaf "below". I have ground out those pockets and have rounded the sharp edges that did the mischief originally.

What's the appropriate finishing process prior to re-assembly? Also wondering about the relative advantages of using the commercially available liners between leaves vs. a moly or graphite grease.

All input greatly appreciated.

[TomT/Williamsburg]

I do not know whether you are trying to go back to stock but I have used the black spring liner with great success, the "U" pointing down (I have seen it the other way).

When installing them I usually add a little white lithium grease by the ends just because .....

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Henry/Kokomo

I'm in the throes of rebuilding a front leaf spring (this is a first for me). The spring was disassembled and the leaves have been cleaned of the residue with a cupped wire wheel on an electric grinder. There were several places where the spring leaf "above" wore a pocket in the leaf "below". I have ground out those pockets and have rounded the sharp edges that did the mischief originally.

What's the appropriate finishing process prior to re-assembly? Also wondering about the relative advantages of using the commercially available liners between leaves vs. a moly or graphite grease.

All input greatly appreciated.

What you are doing will most certainly help your "ride" a little. However, without at minimum replacing the main leaf, the car will go back to the height it was and unfortunately, will not be much better than previous your efforts.
Some guys have the spring re-arced. That is "okay" and certainly better than simply reinstalling it. Still, a new main leaf (at minimum) would be wise at this point in your endeavor.
I'd hate to see you go to all of this effort for little gain.

[Henry/Kokomo]

Thanks guys -

Tom - Just the info I was seeking.

Kube - Thanks for the info. Actually, ride height wasn't an issue. I started the "rebuild" to replace a broken leaf and - of course - things got a bit carried away.

What about the actual finish on the leaves. Paint each leaf individually? Paint the spring as a unit when repairs are completed? Special paint? Primer required? Etc.,etc.,etc.

Just want to do this properly ONCE.

Regards,

[ford38v8]

Henry, Adding layers of material between the leaves will probably require longer U bolts. I use 5th wheel grease, waterproof and stays put. Paint the edges and the exposed ends before lube and assembly, as otherwise you'll have grease oozing where you want to paint. If you have a zerk fitting in the middle, forget about it, it won't do you any good anyway. Get on some play clothes, and have someone take pictures while you're deep into this fun project!

[Kube]

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Originally Posted by Henry/Kokomo

Thanks guys -

Tom - Just the info I was seeking.

Kube - Thanks for the info. Actually, ride height wasn't an issue. I started the "rebuild" to replace a broken leaf and - of course - things got a bit carried away.

What about the actual finish on the leaves. Paint each leaf individually? Paint the spring as a unit when repairs are completed? Special paint? Primer required? Etc.,etc.,etc.

Just want to do this properly ONCE.

Regards,

I powder finish each leaf prior to assembly and like Alan, use a little "fifth wheel" grease between each leaf.
I am not a fan of those liners, even on "driver" cars. A properly prepared spring should not require them and they add (in total) about 1/4" to the spring assembly making the u-bolts too short. That can be easily rectified by milling the clamps down the respective amount.

[Henry/Kokomo]

Thanks for the information.

Alan - I wondered how effective the hollow center bolt was. Not surprised it isn't.

Kube - Do you powder coat the whole leaf or just the edges and exposed parts?

Much obliged,

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Henry/Kokomo

Thanks for the information.

Alan - I wondered how effective the hollow center bolt was. Not surprised it isn't.

Kube - Do you powder coat the whole leaf or just the edges and exposed parts?

Much obliged,

Those center lubrication fittings worked fairly well IF the correct lubricant was used. As soon as grease was introduced, the effectiveness was doomed.
I powder coat each leaf in its entirety. However, keep in mind I do very high point restorations and this is no doubt one area I "over do it".

[SofaKing]

Originally Posted by Kube

Those center lubrication fittings worked fairly well IF the correct lubricant was used. As soon as grease was introduced, the effectiveness was doomed.
I powder coat each leaf in its entirety. However, keep in mind I do very high point restorations and this is no doubt one area I "over do it".

What is the correct lubricant, apparently not a grease?

[Kube]

Originally Posted by SofaKing

What is the correct lubricant, apparently not a grease?

Only a few years ago I had finally used up a five gallon pail of the Ford Spring Lubricant I had purchased back in the 1970's. The lubricant was very similar in apparent ways to the old STP Oil Treatment. Do you recall that stuff?
Anyway, very thick oil but still, an oil vs. a grease.
I had a lubrication specialist mimic this lubricant shortly thereafter. I am not 100% certain what he utilized but it too had the same molasses type consistency.

[ford38v8]

I can't imagine how any type of lubricant could ever have successfully lubricated springs through the center zerk fitting. Think about it... Where is lubricant going? To the first means of escape, part way down the leaves. The ends of all leaves are left dry.

[v8fordman]

I use a product called SlipPlate after grinding the wear pockets away so each leaf can move without binding on the one below it. This product is used on heavy equipment, trains, in the construction industry, etc. It is a dry lubricant and will not attract dust, dirt, etc. Also, it is waterproof and stays between the leafs for a long time.

I do grind the

[Kube]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

I can't imagine how any type of lubricant could ever have successfully lubricated springs through the center zerk fitting. Think about it... Where is lubricant going? To the first means of escape, part way down the leaves. The ends of all leaves are left dry.

Alan, I tend to agree with you and as such, stated in an earlier post of mine "fairly well". I would think it worked quite adequately for the expected life span of these cars.

[woodiewagon46]

I had great success painting between each leaf with a product called Never Seeze. It's the silver compound used to coat threads on bolts to allow easy removal. It really improved the ride.

[Bruce/CT]

I am about to begin the spring cleaning and painting process. There is nothing wrong with either set of springs. I'm just cleaning them and painting them. Is there anything wrong with lightly sand blasting the rust off of the springs?
Thanks,
Bruce/CT

[BILL WZOREK]

Originally Posted by Kube

Only a few years ago I had finally used up a five gallon pail of the Ford Spring Lubricant I had purchased back in the 1970's. The lubricant was very similar in apparent ways to the old STP Oil Treatment. Do you recall that stuff?
Anyway, very thick oil but still, an oil vs. a grease.
I had a lubrication specialist mimic this lubricant shortly thereafter. I am not 100% certain what he utilized but it too had the same molasses type consistency.

When you rebuild a spring that has a zerk fitting on it / could you fill a grease gun with STP & dedicate it to be used on lubing springs.
Or what about using John Deer Corn head grease ?

[Kurt in NJ]

Once "greased " with grease the spring needs to be taken apart and cleaned so the lubricant can flow into the grooves

The 36 service bulletins gave the makings of spring lube--
77-1/2% ice machine oil
20% talc
2-1/2% ground asbestos

from what I can find ice machine oil is about 10wt, or atf fluid
talc is a lubricant and polishing agent

when a spring is treated with this lube pumped in with a grease gun (shake before use) the whole spring seeps this lube after a drive

Look in the 36 sertvice bulletins, June 36, page383

[Bruce/CT]

Anyone have a comment of my post # 15 questioning lightly sanblasting the springs before I paint them. It is high on my to-do list. Don't want to ruin them with too much heat.
Thanks,
Bruce/CT