|
![]() |
#1 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 35
|
![]()
I just spent the last 2 days trying to get my '49 8ba in my F-1 to run cooler, I tried everything u folks said to do .... I treated w/evaporust and it came out nice and clean, I installed new 160* stats, I replaced the fan w/ the stock 4 blade truck fan, the belts r to spec 1/2'' deflection. filled w/50/50 anti freeze and new 4# rad cap... Fired her up and took off down the road temp went up to the 3/4 mark on the gauge and stayed there, the temp outside is 88*, I ran 50 /65 mph.. Got home and put the infra-red thermo on it @ temp senders 213* @ water pumps 196*,inlets & outlets 193*!! oh yes the rad was boiled and is good cond...
Any ideas as to WHATS NEXT |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: East Shore of LAKE HOUSTON
Posts: 11,184
|
![]()
Have ya checked to make sure that timing is not RETARDED a bit? DD
|
![]() |
![]() |
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
#3 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 35
|
![]()
Timing is advanced 3*
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: san antonio, texas
Posts: 461
|
![]()
has the radiator been cleaned by having the upper and lower tanks off an it rodded out, not just flushed?
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 35
|
![]()
That I don't know....
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Waddell, AZ
Posts: 2,540
|
![]() Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Orange Park, Fl
Posts: 406
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oshkosh, Wi
Posts: 4,600
|
![]()
You need to make sure that your vacuum canister on the distributor is working. If it is not the timing will not advance properly and will cause overheating. Disconnect the line and use a vacuum pump to see if the breaker plate rotates.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Green Bay Wi
Posts: 417
|
![]()
I don't think your timing should be 3 degrees advanced I have a 1950 and the timing is to be at 0 degrees make sure when you set it to disc. the advance line to be sure of your mark
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,582
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oshkosh, Wi
Posts: 4,600
|
![]()
The dot on the damper is 2 deg BTDC.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: oroville calif.
Posts: 1,453
|
![]()
I agree that boiling out the rad may not be good enough, unless the cores are open and clean enough to let the solution flow all the way thru them it will do no good, rodding is the only way to really clean rad cores, if it was mine I would spend the money and have the rad rodded, if that doesn't cure your problem you have a more serious problem
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 |
Member Emeritus
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fitzgerald, Georgia
Posts: 2,204
|
![]()
There is no substitute for a new radiator. Having said that it is also important the mechanical tuning and function be correct as suggested by several above.
In this case I would be suspicious of combustion gas entering the cooling system. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,582
|
![]()
Take your thermometer and point it at different parts of the radiator and see if it has hot/cold spots.
Another cause of overheating is exhaust getting into the cooling system through cracks in the block. Usually the cracks go both ways, meaning that coolant will also get into the exhaust. You can get one of those kits and test the coolant for hydrocarbons and you can also look through the rad inlet for bubbling while revving the engine. Last edited by Mike51Merc; 05-11-2014 at 07:28 AM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#15 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Florida and Penna.
Posts: 4,471
|
![]() Quote:
__________________
www.fordcollector.com |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#16 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 35
|
![]()
What are u looking 4 w/ all these readings ???
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Florida and Penna.
Posts: 4,471
|
![]()
If your referring to my post "all these readings" tell me the trend of the cooling and with the external fan which acts like the road air will tell me the temperature it will run going down the road. This is accurate with fixed conditions. Driving has to many variables for initial testing. We are looking for the point where the engine temperature stabilizes at highway speeds. If the temperature keeps going up after a half hour as long as it don't get to 200 keep testing until it stabilizes. After getting these results recommendations to improve cooling can be given. G.M.
__________________
www.fordcollector.com |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#18 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Orem, Utah
Posts: 5,762
|
![]() Quote:
If you don't have a mechanical temperature gauge the best reading of the temperature of the water inside of all of those hot metal surfaces is the top of the radiator as the water just comes out of the engine block before it goes through the radiator to cool. That reading will most accurately tell the temperature of the water which is really all there is to be concerned about. I got so concerned about the water temperature I installed a mechanical temperature gauge in place of the electric gauge sending unit on the left head (left that unit out since the right one really runs the gauge) and hid it in my glove box. Very simple installation and now I always know the true water temperature. Details here: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=88541
__________________
Prof. Henry (The Roaming Gnome) ![]() "It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” *Ursula K. Le Guin in The Left Hand of Darkness Last edited by Old Henry; 05-11-2014 at 05:33 PM. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 11,639
|
![]()
Just for a reference point, here is a copy of a post I made on the Ford V8 site a while ago :
"Today I had the occasion to move my stock '51 around readying my shop for conversion to a winter storage facility. Just as a test, I let the old girl sit and idle with the heater off for 20 minutes. I then shot several areas of the engine with my infrared heat gun. I recorded the results. I then turned on the heater and let it run another 10 minutes. The results were as follow :
My engine has 180 thermostats and the only engine work I have performed on it since I got it in 1987 was to recore the radiator. I have never had any kind of overheating problems with this car. This was not at all a rigidly controlled experiment, but I really tried to be consistant. For example, I tried to shoot both heads right between the 2 bolts in the middle on each end." I think the interesting thing here is that I had an 18 degree drop through the radiator (without the heater), while you got 3 degrees. I have to agree with the guys that suggest the radiator may need attention (unless you had the heater on). Last edited by tubman; 05-11-2014 at 01:15 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#20 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 35
|
![]()
I did not install heater, jus ran by pass hose.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|