What kind of gas, oil?

[Baileigh Inc]

I just picked up this 1928 sedan with the original motor with a fresh rebuild.

What kind of gas are you guys running and do I need to add anything to it?

Also, what is the best oil to run in the motor?

The car is near mint, and I want to start out he summer right.

[fiddlybits]

Welcome Shane and congrats on the new member of the family. Looks real nice.

Be prepared for 237 answers (opinions) to your questions.

I use regular gas....I try to find it without alcohol..but have given up on that quest...and I add "some" Marvel Mystery Oil to it. (my guess is I'm putting in a couple of oz per tank)

For oil...I buy whatever is on sale, detergent or non, change it every couple thousand miles or once per year. I decided it didn't much matter... all of our oils today are better than what was available when the cars were produced 85 years ago.

[Patrick L.]

Congrats, nice looking ride.
Gas, any low octane will work. Some try to use non-ethonal, still others add a little Marvel Mystery Oil or Sea-foam.
Oil. Big controversy. But any 'detergent' straight 30, 10-30, 15-40, 20-50 or anything in between will work.

[Ron/IA]

Shane - Very nice '28; except for the white-wall tires (which is another discussion in itself, and I am kidding). Also, looks like you have a very enthusiastic new comer standing on the running board.

I try to use gas that doesn't contain ethanol. Of course, that depends if non-ethanol fuel is available in you area. If not, I have had very good success with Star Tron fuel additive. It was originally designed for the outboard motor and fuel systems, but has been available for cars for some time now. For me it works great as long as I use the car on a regular basis. For long term storage (more than 90-days), I use Stabil red formula.

As for oil; if you can talk to the engine rebuilder, ask him for a recommendation. If that is not possible, any good quality 10W-30 detergent oil manufactured today will work. You will get many opinions about oil, but just keep it simple (that's what I try to do.

Again, very good looking car (except for the WW's), and enjoy the car.

[Baileigh Inc]

Ha ha, thanks guys.......just to clear the air, the car came with the white walls. I picked it up last October and there has been snow on the ground ever since. This was our maiden voyage.

Is there an inside joke about white walls I should be aware of before getting blind sided at the next car show?

[fiddlybits]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

White wall tires? They fall into the same category as what color the car is painted in my book.
My personal choice is I don't like the looks of them on most cars. (any more than I would like to see a shocking pink car)

Others love the looks.... horse race time....

Go with the look you like and thumb your nose at those that don't like it.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Baileigh Inc

What kind of gas are you guys running and do I need to add anything to it?

Also, what is the best oil to run in the motor?

Lowest octane available to save money Octane levels in the model A era were under 70)

Any oil designed for vehicles will work fine.

[Joe K]

Car looks good with WW. You would fit right in at Saratoga. Be sure to wear your spats.

As to oil, you probably want to go with what you have detergent wise. If the prior owner has been using non-detergent oil, then you want non- detergent.

If the prior owner has been using non-detergent oil and you go to detergent oil - you'll end up lifting all that crud which has settled into the oil pan and putting it in the rest of the engine.

If you want to switch from non-detergent oil, then best would be to clean out the valve chamber and oil pan of all crud, then do the change. And maybe a quick re-change afterwards (run for say 100 miles and then change again.)

I use detergent oil - and have since the engine was rebuilt. Used to be you could buy "el-cheapo" non-detergent oil (I think it was recycled oil) in quart cans for 45 cents a can - about half the going rate of detergent oil. No longer. Now expect to pay a premium for non-detergent oil. And I went with detergent oil on the advice of my engine rebuilder.

Detergent oil is aimed at oil filtration systems - which the stock Model A does not have - but oil change intervals are short anyway (500 miles between changes) and any damage to the engine wear surfaces is more than compensated for by superior oil properties of today's oil.

Joe K

[Mitch//pa]

since you stated its a fresh engine rebuild just use detergent and nix the need for cleaning anything out or non-detergent.
cheapest fuel works
get rid of the white walls

[jerry shook]

As for me i like the white wall tires, I think Henry would to. I use regular for fuel with 4oz Marvel Mystery oil per tank. 15-40 oil. Great looking Car Enjoy.

[zmjc]

Just curious - is there any downside to high octane gas, other than cost?

Apparently the 91 octane gas at some (but definitely not all) local gas stations has 0% ethanol.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Nice ride!
Enjoy the tires and wear them out, then go with your choice blackwall or whitewall.
I try to always buy non ethanol gas and use 4 oz MMO with each 10 gallons. I also do this for all my small engines and haven't had any fuel problems.
I like Shell Rotella, Castrol and any good brand detergent oil.

Keep antifreeze in the cooling system and only fill to just above the top of the radiator tubes.

[fiddlybits]

Originally Posted by zmjc

Just curious - is there any downside to high octane gas, other than cost?

Apparently the 91 octane gas at some (but definitely not all) local gas stations has 0% ethanol.

High octane resists detonation.... generally resulting in an incomplete burn in a low compression engine.

Result = soot, fouling and other nefariously ugly things.... not to mention fewer miles per gallon as you are probably only going to be burning about 75% of the gas....the other 25% will be burning as it heads out the exhaust.

[eagle]

If your new to the Model A world, make sure you understand how to use the spark advance lever. Fully UP for starting, DOWN for running. The Down position takes some adjustment to depending on where the previous owner set the timing and where your individual engine like to run. For cruising, mine likes to be 2 clicks from the bottom. GAV valve is the carb adjustment on the choke lever, mine likes to be 1/4 turn on until warmed up, then nearly off for highway. Around town open it up to nearly 1/4. To facilitate easier/smoother shifting, make sure you keep the engine idle speed low, then shift early and slow. Meaning don't rev the car AT ALL, shift before you think you should and also shift out of gear, wait a couple seconds, then slide it into the next gear. You maybe know all this, just trying to help in case you aren't aware...

[super flat]

Shane, your car looks great, and when I see you around this summer, you will be easy to pick out! have a great oil and gas day, Gary

[Baileigh Inc]

Originally Posted by eagle

If your new to the Model A world, make sure you understand how to use the spark advance lever. Fully UP for starting, DOWN for running. The Down position takes some adjustment to depending on where the previous owner set the timing and where your individual engine like to run. For cruising, mine likes to be 2 clicks from the bottom. GAV valve is the carb adjustment on the choke lever, mine likes to be 1/4 turn on until warmed up, then nearly off for highway. Around town open it up to nearly 1/4. To facilitate easier/smoother shifting, make sure you keep the engine idle speed low, then shift early and slow. Meaning don't rev the car AT ALL, shift before you think you should and also shift out of gear, wait a couple seconds, then slide it into the next gear. You maybe know all this, just trying to help in case you aren't aware...

When the motor was rebuilt, they added a modern ignition system. Are these adjustment still accurate?

[eagle]

Yes, unless they added an automatic advance. When you move the left steering column lever, does the rod attached to the distributer move? If so, then make sure you lift for starting, drop for running. The reason for it is it will kick back when starting and break your starter drive.

[mrraford]

Most folks have danced around the question. The Purist mantra has been that the cars should only wear what Henry put on them from the factory. Since Henry didn't put white walls on them, folks will criticize you for having them.
It is your car. If it looks good and makes you feel good (as in you don't want to buy new tires to please someone else) drive the car with the whites. It looks nice that way.
The Purists will take just about any opportunity to explain to you what is "wrong" with your car. Just get used to it. I've observed such people picking on fully restored, attention to detail, lots of money spent cars that really should receive nothing but praise. The Purist mindset is the Dark Side of the hobby sometimes. It's fun to be one but you can offend people with too much explanation.
Welcome to the hobby!

[Baileigh Inc]

Originally Posted by eagle

Yes, unless they added an automatic advance. When you move the left steering column lever, does the rod attached to the distributer move? If so, then make sure you lift for starting, drop for running. The reason for it is it will kick back when starting and break your starter drive.

Good to know, thanks

[marc hildebrant]

I would strongly suggest that before you drive your car you buy and read a copy of the owners manual.

They are sold by the Model A parts companies and , while not many pages, contain needed info.

Read what Ford said regarding the operation of your car.

Marc