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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 134
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Just torqued the head on the A when engine was cold and again when warm. After 50-100 miles noticed one of the head bolts was wet. Not damp but definetly soaked. Should I re torque again or see if the nut somehow loosened? Thanks.
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: OKC / Tonkawa, Ok.
Posts: 1,977
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What is different? New Head? New Gasket?
When I have seen this it is usually associated with a cracked head. It can also indicate where someone has drilled a stud out and gone to far. Should have torqued the head and then ran it up to temp and then re torqued when cold. Check again for torque and see what you get. If it is a seeping stud I have used peramtex on the threads and has worked.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: new britain,ct 06052
Posts: 9,428
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Before you panic. Re-torque the head a couple of more times. Nothing to lose
FWIW Paul in CT |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: michigan
Posts: 1,138
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I have also used permatex on the stud and never had any more problems
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 134
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Old head, old gasket. I was having a leak in the head right where the engine I.D. tag is. I re torqued to see if that would stop the leak since I had recently bought the car and knew if hadn't been driven much in years.That didn't stop it so added some IRONTITE GASKET SEALER but that didn't help. I know it should have a new resurfaced head and new gasket. This head bolt leak is a recent development.
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#6 |
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 134
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#7 |
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: morrisburg ontario
Posts: 349
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If you have antifreeze in the cooling system , drain it and use straight water.
Should leak less and in time maybe stop. Rust is a great sealer. Fredski |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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But rust is also great for wearing the shaft, bushings, and lead packings.
I'd rather try Bars Leak, or some such sealer. |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Asheville,NC
Posts: 3,104
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Always torque the head COLD. You will get a false reading when it is warm or hot. Just like adjusting valves, always cold.
If you continue to have a leak, remove that nut and wrap dental floss around the bolt at head level and replace the nut.
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#10 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wichita, Kansas
Posts: 710
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Have seen that on newly rebuilt engines. Believe the coolant is wicking thru the soft inner material of the head gasket. Suggest they add a half tube of Alumnaseal or Silver Seal and run it for a while. Block or head are not cracked. Must be the quality of the new head gaskets.
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northport, NY
Posts: 1,597
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Have you tried some BARS LEAK - HEAD SEALANT?
also My engine rebuilder uses ATV when doing studs. Will the stud unscrew? Use thin "Set nuts" to unscrew a stud if "doable" without putting intense pressure on it since you do not want to break it. |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 134
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Thanks for all the replies! Any other ideas,let me know.
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