The Ford Barn

cfordman · 01-18-2014, 06:10 PM

someone said if you don't ever expect anything you will never be disappointed.

after taking in all the suggestions offered I pulled the pan found the rear bearing tube flopping around. after installing a new tube, grinding a relief slot in the top threads of the tube and of course installing new pan gaskets and a drain plug I have canceled the pile of dirt I ordered to park the car nose down. the leak is fixed. ran the car with the nose jacked up and not a drop leaked where before there would have been a half pint on the floor.

I replaced the two piece timing gear with the laminated version as the old gear had slack/wobble problems. motor noise gone.

while doing this I spotted my fan pulley had a split in it and had been brazed before. i put a new fan on only to see the original crank pulley has been welded. going to order a one piece pulley, plan to pull radiator and I have an impact wrench. how is the pulley put on? will I need a puller and can it be driven back on or pressed with the crank bolt.

this is a fantastic site, hope we never run out of senior members.

Tom Wesenberg · 01-18-2014, 06:36 PM

If you plan to pull the old pulley and install the new one without removing the front cover, it can be a bit risky. Make sure the key lines up exactly with the pulley keyway. I saw one where someone pressed or hammered the pulley on and it rocked the key out of position and cracked the pulley sleeve right at the keyway.

cfordman · 01-18-2014, 06:43 PM

thanks tom, what do I need to remove the old pulley? is it a press fit I seem to remember reading somewhere its a nightmare requiring possible heating old one and freezing the new one. ive been turning wrenches for over forty years but I found its better to ask first than to open a can of worms. the old pulley may last my life time but.......

cfordman · 01-18-2014, 06:47 PM

forgot to mention the front seal is a full circle rubber style. once the radiator is out pulling the cover is easy, but trying to save a step. yes oil slinger is there. and I understand what keith is saying about the crank nose.

Keith True · 01-18-2014, 06:42 PM

The crank pulley is SUPPOSED to slide off.Some do,some you have to destroy to get off.You will most likely have to pull the timing gear cover again,and loosen the pan bolts to drop it down.A new one should slide on,maybe with a little help from the crank bolt.Whatever you do,don't drive it on.that breaks the thrust babbit.Also,when the new pulley is seated against the oil slinger,crank gear,make sure the pulley is standing proud of the crank.If the crank sticks out beyond the pulley,the bolt will tighten,but the pulley will never be tight.If the crank does stick out,stop right there and figure out a way to correct it.

Tom Wesenberg · 01-18-2014, 07:11 PM

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You should be able to quite easily pull the old pulley off, or use a slide hammer to help it off. It's the timing gear for the crank that is the tight press fit and a bear to remove. Since you have the full rubber seal you might be able to just leave the cover and pan in place and slide on the new pulley, but as mentioned, be very careful with the half moon key so you don't rock it out of position. Put a little grease on the inside and outside of the new pulley and hopefully you can keep the keyway in line as you push it on.

BTW you do know you will have to remove 2 rear motor mount bolts and loosen the other 2 in the rear and remove the front 2 to raise the engine enough to remove the pulley.

01-18-2014, 06:10 PM	#1
cfordman Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Posts: 66	massive oil leak revisited someone said if you don't ever expect anything you will never be disappointed. after taking in all the suggestions offered I pulled the pan found the rear bearing tube flopping around. after installing a new tube, grinding a relief slot in the top threads of the tube and of course installing new pan gaskets and a drain plug I have canceled the pile of dirt I ordered to park the car nose down. the leak is fixed. ran the car with the nose jacked up and not a drop leaked where before there would have been a half pint on the floor. I replaced the two piece timing gear with the laminated version as the old gear had slack/wobble problems. motor noise gone. while doing this I spotted my fan pulley had a split in it and had been brazed before. i put a new fan on only to see the original crank pulley has been welded. going to order a one piece pulley, plan to pull radiator and I have an impact wrench. how is the pulley put on? will I need a puller and can it be driven back on or pressed with the crank bolt. this is a fantastic site, hope we never run out of senior members.

01-18-2014, 06:36 PM	#2
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: massive oil leak revisited If you plan to pull the old pulley and install the new one without removing the front cover, it can be a bit risky. Make sure the key lines up exactly with the pulley keyway. I saw one where someone pressed or hammered the pulley on and it rocked the key out of position and cracked the pulley sleeve right at the keyway.

01-18-2014, 06:43 PM	#3
cfordman Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Posts: 66	Re: massive oil leak revisited thanks tom, what do I need to remove the old pulley? is it a press fit I seem to remember reading somewhere its a nightmare requiring possible heating old one and freezing the new one. ive been turning wrenches for over forty years but I found its better to ask first than to open a can of worms. the old pulley may last my life time but.......

01-18-2014, 06:47 PM	#4
cfordman Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Posts: 66	Re: massive oil leak revisited forgot to mention the front seal is a full circle rubber style. once the radiator is out pulling the cover is easy, but trying to save a step. yes oil slinger is there. and I understand what keith is saying about the crank nose.

01-18-2014, 06:42 PM	#5
Keith True Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Epping N.H. Posts: 3,423	Re: massive oil leak revisited The crank pulley is SUPPOSED to slide off.Some do,some you have to destroy to get off.You will most likely have to pull the timing gear cover again,and loosen the pan bolts to drop it down.A new one should slide on,maybe with a little help from the crank bolt.Whatever you do,don't drive it on.that breaks the thrust babbit.Also,when the new pulley is seated against the oil slinger,crank gear,make sure the pulley is standing proud of the crank.If the crank sticks out beyond the pulley,the bolt will tighten,but the pulley will never be tight.If the crank does stick out,stop right there and figure out a way to correct it.

01-18-2014, 07:11 PM	#6
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: massive oil leak revisited Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) You should be able to quite easily pull the old pulley off, or use a slide hammer to help it off. It's the timing gear for the crank that is the tight press fit and a bear to remove. Since you have the full rubber seal you might be able to just leave the cover and pan in place and slide on the new pulley, but as mentioned, be very careful with the half moon key so you don't rock it out of position. Put a little grease on the inside and outside of the new pulley and hopefully you can keep the keyway in line as you push it on. BTW you do know you will have to remove 2 rear motor mount bolts and loosen the other 2 in the rear and remove the front 2 to raise the engine enough to remove the pulley.