Pull the trans, or pull the engine?

[racer32]

Fixing to tear apart my coupe and see why the clutch won't work. As far as ease of removal, which is less work? Pulling the engine, or pulling out the rear-end and transmission? All the front sheetmetal and the fenders are already off the car. It also has float-a-motor mounts at the bellhousing.

[Greg Jones]

With the fenders and other sheetmetal already off, definitely pull the whole engine and transmission together. Definitely.

[Bruce Lancaster]

Agree!
easier here no matter what...on other things, sometimes it depends on whether lying under or pulling with crane are easier for you and your back.
On an A, the bellhousing and stock rear mounts form a crossmember AND control front suspension geometry via the wishbone AND hold the pedals and brake and clutch linkage in alignment without shifting distance...
I think float-a-motor leaves all these important connections floating in the wind, with enough movement to upset several functions. For one thing, before pulling, remove the floorboards and stomp brakes and clutch and watch!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Normally I'd remove the rear end and tranny, but the FAM's and all the sheet metal off the front, I would remove the engine and leave the tranny in the car.

[RonC]

What's wrong with your clutch?

[racer32]

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Originally Posted by RonC

What's wrong with your clutch?

Won't disengage. Got lots of advice on freeing it up in the car, but NOTHING worked.

[racer32]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Normally I'd remove the rear end and tranny, but the FAM's and all the sheet metal off the front, I would remove the engine and leave the tranny in the car.

That was what I was planning, but a friend suggested pulling the rear and trans-even though the sheetmetal was off. I've got back issues, and lying on cold concrete trying to muscle a transmission out from under there, then working on the clutch underneath the car doesn't sound like much fun. 30 years ago-no sweat.

[RonC]

Just pull the engine. Leave the bell housing and transmission in the car. Since the car has been sitting for 40 years I would clean the transmission shaft with a scotch pad. You could very lightly oil the shaft. I would get a clutch from brattons (they are really good) and send it to
http://www.fortwayneclutch.com . They will send you a rebuilt pressure plate that matches your clutch. The clutch thickness matters when adjusting the pressure plate.
You need to pull the engine because you will want to pull the pan off and clean all the sludge that must be in the bottom of the pan. http://youtu.be/jbqW6uHpASM

I would also check adjust bearings, and replace the timing gear. You could do a lot more to the engine to freshen it up. I would replace every gasket in the engine. Don't forget to drain and replace transmission and rear end fluids.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Bruce Lancaster

On an A, the bellhousing and stock rear mounts form a crossmember AND control front suspension geometry via the wishbone AND hold the pedals and brake and clutch linkage in alignment without shifting distance...
I think float-a-motor leaves all these important connections floating in the wind, with enough movement to upset several functions. For one thing, before pulling, remove the floorboards and stomp brakes and clutch and watch!

Minerva had FAM's, both front & rear, I regularly drove 500 to 600 miles a month, year around & NEVER had ANY of the problems listed above!
Those mounts, along with a rubber tail pipe hanger, is the best improvement you can make to a Model A, if you want a really SMOOTH driving car! I could hear the engine running SO SMOOTH & QUIET & literally LAFFIN' at 60-65-70-& even 75 MPH!
If I weren't SO TIRED, I'd put them in Vermin. They ARE a LOT of work to install (WHAR'S MY ANTI-PAIN PILLS?)
Bill W.

[racer32]

RonC, what about just getting the whole shebang from Ft Wayne? http://www.fortwayneclutch.com/index...3-kt-1523.html

[RonC]

Racer32 I have no experience with their clutch disks but the one in the picture is the version that does not have the metal upsets around the springs. I think brattons disks are superior because they have that feature.