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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 593
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Replaced the head gasket, (copper type) on a Model A
I used a different head than what was on the block to begin with. The block wasn't decked or the head resurfaced. Getting weeping (wet around some of the head bolts.) Only water has been put in, not anti-freeze yet. Should I have used copper gold spray on the gasket before installing it? |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 6,039
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You should have used something on the gasket. I usually use Copper-coat. A little Permatex #2 on the head bolts helps also.
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Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole. ![]() |
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#3 |
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Since "The block wasn't decked or the head resurfaced" even something like copper coat may not have worked. Did you also re-torque the head nut several times?
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What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Coastal Mississippi & Central West Florida
Posts: 206
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https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...t=dental+floss
This search shows dental floss having been used in similar situations. See item #12
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Ed LAW OF MECHANICAL REPAIR ONCE YOUR HANDS BECOME COVERED WITH GREASE,
YOUR NOSE WILL ITCH AND YOU'LL HAVE TO PEE |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 8,099
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I doubt that the gasket is the problem. I use anti seize compound on the coarse threads of the studs where they enter the block and nothing on the fine thread end where the head nuts install. In worse cases where the bottom of the threaded holes in the block have been broken from over tightening the studs, I use silicone RTV sealer on the coarse threads of the studs. As mentioned above, the head nuts will need to be retorqued several times in the correct sequence, untill they will hold 55 ft. lbs. torque.
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#6 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 2,973
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A local antique car 'restorer 'used to solve the problem with a crescent wrench and a good tug. He went out of business years ago from other 'fixes' he had devised! |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
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After multiple torqueings & a jar of BARS-LEAKS, you "MIGHT" be good to go. These old cars are quite FORGIVING at times. Just make sure you're NOT getting water in the oil! Bill W.
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"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" |
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#8 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 5
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I had one leaking and read the same post Ed is referring to above. About 8 wraps of dental floss did the trick. No more leak!
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Camino, CA.
Posts: 3,086
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Sooner or later rust on the stud will stop the leak.
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
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YEP! Glen, & in about 31 years, some guy willl be on THE BARN, asking, "How do I get this DANGED head off, It's like it wuz WELDED ON"!!
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"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: oroville calif.
Posts: 1,453
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basicly if the water leak is not on the outside of the head its not a head gasket, the best way to stop head stud leaks is to prevent them in the first place, seal all the studs before installing the head, when ever the head is removed check to see if its warped, and when removing a head remove the head bolts in the opposit direction as when it was torqued, that will eliminate a lot of head warpage, and the subsequent water leaks
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 593
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Thank you for all the replies to the weeping around the head bolts. We ran the engine the next day and the head bolts didn't have any seepage.
Go figure! |
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