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#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 3
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I bought the pickup yesterday and would like to clean out the rust in the gas tank.(been setting for a few years) I have been told the tank is not a bolt in type. this is my first model A Thanks Doyle
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
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Doyle, ALL Model A tanks are bolt in. DON'T seek further advice from whoever told you that! Bill W.
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"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" |
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#3 |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
Posts: 11,454
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One of the first things i check when purchasing an A is to look in the gas tank with my super high powered led flashlight. Rust is usually a deal breaker for me on the body or in the tank..there are some threads on the subject if you do a search, but none of it is enjoyable in my view
have used evapo rust with good results it can be resolved tho Last edited by Mitch//pa; 08-29-2013 at 11:43 AM. |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: 60046
Posts: 888
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evaporust works well
jump in the cab stand on your head and remove the bolts and clamps that hold the tank to the cowel panels you'll also need to remove the bolts from the steering column and all the wires/screws from the dash panel easy job with just some time and some basic tools tk
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anyone need some Model A restoration work done in Illinois? shoot me an email for pics and information [email protected] |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Southwestern Connecticut
Posts: 934
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There is rust, and then there is RUST. Mine was a barn-find that sat since 1964. When I first got it on the road, it would clog up with rust every few days.
I threw in a length of chain and sloshed it around... filled, drained, strained, rinsed and repeated. I still get tiny bits in my fuel bowl, but a couple of neodymium magnets under the tank near the shut off catch the big pieces. I drive mine a lot, and have had no problems in two years. From what I have heard, pulling the tank is not hard. The challenge is getting it back in, and lining up the welting.
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Style beats speed any day, and with a lot fewer tickets. |
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#6 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 3
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: new britain,ct 06052
Posts: 9,428
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Welcome to the Barn ! Before you go looking to pull the tank, how badly is it rusted, try doing a search for various ways others have used. If not bad you might get away with flushing, installing a standup fer in the tank. FWIW
Paul in CT |
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#8 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: nashville
Posts: 20
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Doyle, What everyone is trying to say is that pulling the tank apart is not a fun way to spend a day. Most often a magnet on a flexible handle along with a little elbow grease on a bottle brush will resolve 98% of your problem. Scrub it, clean out the loose material with the magnet about five times and you will have it licked.
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#9 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
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Dog ![]() ![]() And, Doyle, git everybody's MODEL A PARTS CATALOGS, they like a POOR MAN's shop manual! & they're FREE & the 800 phone calls ur FREE too ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Buster T. ![]()
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"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" Last edited by BILL WILLIAMSON; 08-29-2013 at 12:34 PM. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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I agree with what Paul says. It's certainly worth a try before the work of pulling the tank.
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Liberty, MO
Posts: 201
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Just did my 30 four door it's not two bad of job take it good raditor shop dip and seal a good shop can do it with out harming paint wax it thick and dont wipe off before taking we have a good shop in our area 180 dolllars and you don't have to worrie about it a gin and have new welting around the tank have a blessed day
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#12 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Deerfield, NJ
Posts: 85
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So far I have removed, no BS, almost 5 pounds of rust, sediment and what may have been a coating. Taking it all out from the fuel cap hole with a home made sheet metal ladle. What a pain in the ass! Multiple refills of filtered gas and rocking the car back and fourth, repeat. Almost clean, almost. Have been on the side of the road cleaning out a clogged sediment bowl and add on filter, multiple times. I am able to drive it farther each time. Lol! Taking the tank out is the correct way, my way is just a challenge! There is stuff still hiden behind the baffles. Always makes for a fun "do ya think will make it without a break down" ride!
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1927 T, 1930 A coupe, 1929 A Roadster, 1933 Dodge pickup, 1935 5 window coupe |
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#13 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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Just be sure to use the small filter in the shutoff valve once you get most of the junk out. My tank is really clean but I still use the filter as an aid again possible junk getting in the valve or needle and seat. If I could find a small 110 volt pump that would stand up to the new gas, I'd make a recirculating system where the pump takes in through a large filter on the bottom of the tank, then pumps it back into the filler. Just keep it running while rocking the car back and forth once in a while until the tank if free of any loose rust and junk. |
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 4,179
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FWIW:
Humble opinion: 1. One can find hundreds & hundreds of magazine articles & forum articles from "all" vintage vehicle forums, (not just the Model A forums), which were already written on dealing with vintage gas tank rust. This is a very controversial subject. 2. Opinions, experiences, & suggestions vary so much it is most unbelievable. 3. My best advice would be to read as many articles as you can, & just pick out which ever one you feel most comfortable with; or if you think of something else or something new & want to try it, then go for it. 4. This is what I did & it worked for me -- furthermore, this is usually what most people will do most of the time anyway -- best of luck. Sincerely hope this helps. Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 08-30-2013 at 12:04 AM. Reason: typo |
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