35 Phaeton Chassis restoration

[fmedina]

The restoration of my Phaeton started for his chassis. My car was modified to install petrol (diesel) engine, also had the front and rear suspension modified, was craked…. but I have other chassis from a 35 Cabriolet, this was more rusty than my Phaeton chassis, so we are using both chassis to complete one on decent shape.
My chassis is all dissembled, and we are patching all parts prior to reassemble, but have some doubts about what holes are correct and what not, I want to remove these additional holes, but not sure. Is there any detailed information where I can check what holes are correct and what not? Diagrams, pictures, etc
Also I want to ask about the reassemble method, It will be possible to do it with bolts instead of rivets? (Most of the holes where re-drilled to bigger size) what disadvantage it would have? I know that Roy Nacewith have these rivets, but how difficult is to riveting them on the chassis? Any advice?











Best regards,
Fredys

[rotorwrench]

Rivets fill the hole more tightly than bolts. I am an aircraft mechanic so I have the pneumatic rivet guns and set tooling to drive them. With larger size rivets, they sometimes need to be heated with a torch in order to drive them properly. It will take several men to position the frame in ways to make access. I have also made many different shape bucking bars to form the buck tails. Heavy steel bar stock works the best.

You can use bolts but they will not hold as well as the rivets and will have to be checked for loosness more often than rivets.

[VeryTangled]

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/F...1932-37car.jpg

Does that help at all?

VT/Jeff

[Fe26]

Using bolts is an inferior method of fitting a structural frame together.

There are many posts on here and the HAMB about making and using simple tools to set rivets.

One tip when heating rivets, make sure the heat gets all the way down the shank. After the new head is formed the residual heat in the shank will cause the rivet to shrink as it cools, this shinkage ensures a tight fit in two ways; first it allows the shank to fill the hole then it causes the heads to pull together. The result is a powerful and robust fastener that won't require any further maintenance.

'Set and forget' was the old Boilermakers mantra.

Good luck.

[Steve Staysko]

Call Roy Nacewicz - Phone: 734-654-9450 www.fordbolts.com I bought all my original style frame rivets from Roy and he is one of the best top quality suppliers....

[ford38v8]

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Fredys,

Here's a good dimensioned drawing of the '35 - '40 frame. Look closely, it has the differences between those years identified and drawn on one side or the other. It doesn't show every detail, but hopefully it will do you some good:

http://www.wescottsauto.com/WebCatal...ram1935-40.pdf

What you've been told about rivets versus bolts is exactly right. Bolts willl compromise all your good work. First choice is Roy Nacewicz as advised. If he can't help you, he might advise you to contact Big Flats:

Big Flats Rivet Co www.bigflatsrivet.com
Authentic rivets for vintage cars

[Terry,OH]

May wish to check out the frame pieces made by Precision Coachworks 1-800-322-1940 www.precisioncoachworks.com They have the body mounts for the side of the frame as well as many of the other pieces. Their pieces fit like a glove!

[VeryTangled]

Hi Everyone, Steve Staysko started a thread earlier today about his website and I'm enjoying the reading and photos. There is a section about his frame restoration that is very informative. There is info about the rivets. Here's a link.

http://www.the34fordroadster.com/res...-the-34-frame/

-VT/Jeff