light switch spider retainer woes - Can't get it installed

[thebanjoman]

Trying to finish up the light switch. I finally got all the sludge of the leaking steering box out of light switch box and am now trying to reassemble it.

I can't seem to compress things enough to get the retainer on.

I believe the switch rod is seated properly and should be down long enough.

What the trick?

[TedG]

I've only done one but I found the rod may move up a bit when you push the spider on, so either have someone hold it down or if you're working by yourself you can take a yardstick and place it over the horn button and under the rim of the steering wheel to hold it down. The spider installation tool also helps.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I'm not sure if you mean the BAIL WIRE, or if you mean the C CLIP for the spider.

If you mean the C clip, then first make sure the clip fits the groove in the bottom of the switch rod, then slip the spring in place, then the spider and then install the C clip. A wood yardstick works to hold the switch rod from push back up the column.

If you mean the BAIL WIRE, then make sure the spider is at the 6-12 position with the handle on the steering wheel at 6 o'clock. Then make sure the slots inside the switch are at the 6-12 position, then push the switch assembly into the spider and column. Make sure the wires are pointing UP as it's mounted, then lift the bail wire up and snap it in place. Remember there are 2 sizes of switch covers and bail wires, so make sure you have the correct parts for your year.

[roccaas]

Also make sure that the "pimples" on the spider match into the plastic "dimples" on the base plate. There is only one way to assemble it correctly, and if the dimples and pimples are matched onto the brass/copper dimples at rest, you have it 180 degrees off.

Sometimes you may find that moving the steering wheel light switch 180 degrees to the top of the steering wheel may make it easier to install the spider.

Buy the spring compression tool. Make sure the C clip locks solidly to the shaft.

[thebanjoman]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I'm not sure if you mean the BAIL WIRE, or if you mean the C CLIP for the spider.

If you mean the C clip, then first make sure theclip fits the groove in the bottom of the switch rod, then slip the spring in place and install the C clip. A wood yardstick works to hold the switch rod from push back up the column.

If you mean the BAIL WIRE, then make sure the spider is at the 6-12 position with the handle on the steering wheel at 6 o'clock. Then make sure the slots inside the switch are at the 6-12 position, then push the switch assembly into the spider and column. Make sure the wires are pointing UP as it's mounted, then lift the bail wire up and snap it in place. Remember there are 2 sizes of switch covers and bail wires, so make sure you have the correct parts for your year.

I'm talking about the c clip itself. I have the 'cup' part of the light switch body seated in the steering box and oriented properly.The spider and spring are inside. I used 2 brake springs and 2 ratchet straps on the steering wheel to hold the cup in place so It would free me up to mess with the c clip.

There is some movement with the assembly inside the cup and I can move it up but it doesn't appear to be enough to get the c clip on.

I will try using a yardstick to make sure the switch rod stays in pace.

I may have the spider itself oriented wrong and this may not give me enough to push up to get the c clip on.

Of course I'm doing this flat on my back on the creeper with the shop light on it pushing up. I sure don't want to pull the steering box just to do this.

[Model A Man]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

In the January/Febuary 2010 restorer (pg. 43) there is a tip that shows making a tool out of electric conduit for installing this clip

[Ed Saniewski]

Banjoman, I might be reading this wrong, but I think you are assembling this wrong. The C clip is installed after the spring and spider have been slid onto the horn rod. You then force them up and slip the C clamp over the indentation in the rod. As Tom said, check to see if the C clamp fits over the rod first, some of the repop clips don't. After this you can slide the light cup control on and fit it to the spider. One other problem that you might run into, is do you have the correct size horn rod? If the rod is to short you will never get it on.

[Ed Saniewski]

It might also be easier to assemble this from above.

[V4F]

i always have my wife hold the button down so i can get the lil clip on ... good luck .. steve

[msmaron]

Mikes A-Fordable sells a tool to do this,, very very handy little sucker!

[pat in Santa Cruz]

Set the rod in the steering wheel with the switch in the off position, that is, with the lever down. Slip a yardstick on top of it and behind the steering wheel rim to hold it in place, or get a helper to hold it firmly. Any small movement of the rod upwards will inhibit your success. Then install the spring and spider with the prongs vertical and turn the assembly and rod 90 degrees so you can see the rod groove when you compress the spider and spring. I have one of Mikes tools, but prior to that I used the back side of a large deep socket to push the spider and compress the spring. Using a needle nose pliers, slip the clip over the rod groove from above and release the tension on the spider so the clip rests inside the small depression in the spider. Its far easier working from above than from below where you are working against both the spring and gravity. A bright, well placed light greatly facilitates things too.

[thebanjoman]

Originally Posted by Ed Saniewski

Banjoman, I might be reading this wrong, but I think you are assembling this wrong. The C clip is installed after the spring and spider have been slid onto the horn rod. You then force them up and slip the C clamp over the indentation in the rod. As Tom said, check to see if the C clamp fits over the rod first, some of the repop clips don't. After this you can slide the light cup control on and fit it to the spider. One other problem that you might run into, is do you have the correct size horn rod? If the rod is to short you will never get it on.

There have been more times than not that I've gotten assemblies out of order. Or read things improperly..

SO

It assembles this way..

1. Insert horn rod from top.
2. slide spring on.
3. slide on spider.
4. Attach C clip.

NOT

1,2,3, and try and

4. Attach 'cup'
5. Try to put on c clip

NO WONDER....

NOW this makes PERFECT sense.

I walked down to the shop and had the c clip on and the light switch body on in 5 minutes. Aligned properly and works like it's supposed to.

Nothing like taking a long weekend to make a mountain out of a molehill.

In talking to my wife about this, Its really her car, I just get the job of putting it back together that a set of shop manuals might be under the tree this year.

I'm not making productive time of this project by fumbling on stupid stuff like this.

I'm feeling kind of stupid right now...

Thank you.

[1931 flamingo]

Books and catalogs with illustrations are a MUST as well as at least vol I by les andrews. If for nothing more than verification if you "think" you know. JMO
Paul in CT

[Ed Saniewski]

Get a copy of the service bulletins also, this is a great resource info.

[thebanjoman]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Books and catalogs with illustrations are a MUST as well as at least vol I by les andrews. If for nothing more than verification if you "think" you know. JMO
Paul in CT

I was reluctant to do this because of the costs I found on Amazon and other places. I was shocked to find these listed for $100.00 +

Luckily I did some additional searching found both Vol 1 and 2 for much less so I went ahead and bought them. They'll probably pay for themselves in the long run.

I personally would rather have electronic copies of manuals.

You can't put greasy fingerprints on a PDF!!

[Ray in La Mesa]

When test fitting the C clip on the horn rod notch, also test that it fits into the depression on the bottom of the spider. I've had repros that don't fit iether.

[wbswenberg]

My spider fork does not come out of the switch housing. I think I'm going to have to remove the rivets from the neck. Then put the neck, spring, fork, and then keeper. Bring the housing up and then the bail. Then use small sheet metal screws to attach the neck to the switch housing.

This will be after I straighten out the cross wiring. Both filaments light on high of the right headlight while the left one is out. Just wonder where the high beam wire for the left goes. Its a voyage of discovery.

May be then then the horn will work.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Banjoman, it's O.K. to feel STUPID, we all been there!!!
The Dog fell over the other day while scratchin' his belly!!
Bill W.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by wbswenberg

My spider fork does not come out of the switch housing. I think I'm going to have to remove the rivets from the neck. Then put the neck, spring, fork, and then keeper. Bring the housing up and then the bail. Then use small sheet metal screws to attach the neck to the switch housing.

This will be after I straighten out the cross wiring. Both filaments light on high of the right headlight while the left one is out. Just wonder where the high beam wire for the left goes. Its a voyage of discovery.

May be then then the horn will work.

If you have repro contacts make sure they aren't touching each other. Most of the time the repro contacts need to have the diameter ground smaller by using a Dremel.

Mike V. hopefully will post the nice color wiring schematic.