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#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 4
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My power seat just stopped working. When I try to raise or lower it I just get a clicking noise from the relay for that motor. When I try foreword or backward I get the same clicking noise from the relay for that motor. I removed both motors and bench tested them bypassing the relays and they worked fine. Should I assume that replacing the relays will fix the problem? I will appreciate any input. Thanks!!
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#2 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: IN A 'GALAXIE' FAR FAR AWAY
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Bypass the relay(s) - TESTING ONLY
Might also be the switch. Isolate each from the circuit briefly. Do you have a multi-tester?
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#3 |
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Join Date: Jan 2021
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I did check the switch with a multi-tester and it is in working order. So the switch works, the motors work without the relays.
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#4 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Conifer, Colorado
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It really sounds like the relay, since you have tested the motors out of the car. I get the same issue, when the battery, is low on my 53' Merc, with factory 4 way seats. The relay will test fine, but they really need allot of power.
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#5 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
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Good 'ol GEN and 6V Systems. I hated those things.
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#6 |
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Gladstone, OR
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#7 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: IN A 'GALAXIE' FAR FAR AWAY
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Squeeze your sphincters gentlemen before clicking on URL -
1955 FORD PS RELAY - B5A 14512-B - NOS https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1955-Fo...-/292790779912
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#8 |
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Kent, WA. Tucson, AZ
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Put the multi meter on and check the voltage in place under load. Probably need another person to do it. Sometimes things read ok with no load, but have enough internal resistant to not work under full load. I've had several failing batteries that read ok till you hit the starter and headlights. Not that I think that's your problem, but load does sometimes tell a different story.
If you can live with a non stock replacement. https://www.classictbird.com/Relay-P...ctinfo/14512B/ |
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#9 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Conifer, Colorado
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Take the cover off of the relay, by bending the tabs back, really carefully. If you break a few, the cover will still stay on. I usually spray a little WD-40 Contact Cleaner on the points, and it seams to do the trick. Considering the option (the cost of a new relay - ouch ouch ouch!). The old parts are really quite hardy, and in most cases with a little cleaning they can be put back into service.
Last edited by Merc Cruzer; 02-02-2021 at 09:22 PM. |
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#10 |
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Location: Conifer, Colorado
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I will be interested to see if cleaning the points, works for you.
Last edited by Merc Cruzer; 02-02-2021 at 09:23 PM. |
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#11 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Oakville Ontario
Posts: 586
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Oakville Ontario
Posts: 586
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searching the part number there is less pricey
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#13 |
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Well I’d go to 12 sys ,just change the bulbs ,all the motors will work fine with 12 V ,lower amperage ,since 6V motors have heavy wiring ,it will work fine I have 52 Fd all elec Mtrs and solenoids work great 15 yrs no problems !
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#14 |
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Join Date: Jan 2021
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Thankyou everybody for the great suggestions! I am new to this Forum as of a few days ago. I am impressed with the response I've received from my question. I will check the voltage under load and take relay cover off and clean contacts. I will report back with my results. Thanks again!!
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#15 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Gladstone, OR
Posts: 170
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#16 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: IN A 'GALAXIE' FAR FAR AWAY
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I would think that a person willing to pay that price is involved in a complete restoration and has to have everything correct down to the last detail.
Repairing/restoring these cars depends entirely how one is going to use it.
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#17 |
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Join Date: Jan 2021
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I have an update on my power seats not working. I checked the voltage at each post of the switch under load and got 10 volts. I then took the relays apart and lightly cleaned the contact points, and sprayed them with electrical cleaner. I got the same results. the relays just click. I ordered 2 new relays (which are on back order) and after I get and install them I will post the results. Thanks again to all who have responded with your knowledge!
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#18 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Conifer, Colorado
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Are you using 6 volt motors and relays with a 12 volt system?
Last edited by Merc Cruzer; 02-05-2021 at 08:39 PM. |
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#19 |
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Kent, WA. Tucson, AZ
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A 56 Ford/Merc should be 12 volts. 10 volts under load might not manage a seat relay, I've never checked. If you've got 12 volts at the switch, and 10 under load, try running a long wire from the battery to the relay and see if it closes and holds. If you're losing 2 volts (12 in 10 out) at the switch under load, you might be even lower at the relay. Old connections, etc. Doesn't take much loss and the relay will click but not hold.
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#20 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: IN A 'GALAXIE' FAR FAR AWAY
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Good advice.
It may also be the seat track is in a bind or worn and is loading the motor(s) Maybe have to disassemble and lubricate track(s). Also a charging system check, battery check (min 12V) and a load draw test on the seat motors while installed in the track.
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- WANNA SEE A GOOD CAR WRECK? - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5oO226PgSkg KULTULZ - HAS MOVED ON TO THE HAPPY PROVING GROUNDS |
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