Wood Grain Powder Coating???

[Kevin in NJ]

I was reading about some local auto customization that offers powder coating. They claim they can do wood grain in powder coat.

I did a quick search on the web and found a couple companies that sell the process.

Does anyone know more details?

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Kevin, what would you guess the advantage would be with powderpaint?



Just thinking a bit, I know I could find a base color that would match the Suzuki Red base color. I could apply it and do a ½ bake. Then maybe use some black powder squeegied across my plate and then use Saran Wrap or maybe my roller to apply the grain followed by another partial bake, ...followed by an application of clear coat to seal it in. I am thinking the Mil thickness would be about the same as how I am doing it now, ...and since I am using a urethane base (which has great adhesion qualities) and using catalyzed acrylic urethane as the finish coat, my instincts are that it would be equally as durable as the powder-painted part.

Two comments to contemplate;
a) Based on my personal experiences, WAY more often than not the window trim or the dash panel will need to be body worked prior to applying a basecoat. While there are products out there that are applicable as a substrate for powderpaint, they are kinda expensive and very difficult to work (i.e.: sand). The same thing can be said for the clear. I can colorsand and polish powderpaint and make it glass smooth just like fresly rubbed-out lacquer however it is very tough stuff to sand and buff. Most people want the clear applied over the grain pattern to be colorsanded and buffed.

b) I recently received something where someone was saying all woodgraining processes (even those folks using Grain-It's system) are not the same. I had to explain to this person that we use good quality 2k primers and 2k urethane paints. If someone is searching to have woodgraining done, ask the craftsman whether they are using 2k urethane for the base & topcoat, --or whether they are using fast drying lacquer. Common sense dictates that if one craftsman is using lacquer out of a spray can, it will be faster to apply and less durable (chip resistant) than someone who is using catalyzed urethanes.

.

[Terry, NJ]

Kevin, Why in the world would you want to go to the trouble and expense of powder coating interior parts when normal paint does fine? I can see powder coating wheels, oil pans, chassis parts, etc. to help prevent damage from the weather, and road debris. But I can't see the "why" of doing interior parts. The word "Overkill" comes to mind. Am I missing something?
Terry

[gweilbaker]

I don't know if it would be over kill, I often drive with my arm on the sill and wear a spot in the paint doing so. Though I don't know if I could do it in the 2k that Brent uses.

GW

[Kevin in NJ]

I was just asking. It never hurts to learn about new processes.

I try to understand how things were done originally and look at where things need to be done as original for proper function. I also try to learn about new processes and apply them as they seem appropriate.

I work on a budget like everyone else. I have to make the trade offs between correct original and good enough to get me on the road. If there was a cost/ time benefit to powder coat wood grain then I would consider my options.

You have to ask the questions to get the answers.

As a side note:
Keep in mind that paint as we know it will be changing. Powder coating and water based paints are the future as people that know better are trying to improve the world (great sarcasm intended).

[Barry B./ Ma.]

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I did a driver acceptable job of woodgraining a Town sedan window frames without a lot of expense. I sprayed on a burgandy lacquer base coat, after drying I rubbed and brushed a coat of water based acrylic craft store paint then after drying for a day sprayed on two coats of clear lacquer.