Victoria top moldings

[art ebeling]

What top moldings should be on a March 31 built Victoria? I can't find a clear picture of them and am asking if someone could post a couple pictures of the front and side moldings. Also, what top material is correct? I only see the long grain in the suppliers catalogs. Thanks, Art

[Bill Cilker]

Art
Here is a picture of the two pieces of top moldings on my 5/31 original Victoria. I hope that this helps.

[art ebeling]

Thanks Bill, I'm still not sure of what I am looking at. The supplier catalogs show a type R4 molding that has to bent over and says it is for the front, and a R4 T YPE that has a rubber insert that I think may be for the sides and around the back. Are those to be painted the upper body color? And would that mean the top would have to be installed first?

[Dale G.]

Yes and yes. The front moulding has a front and back. Look closely at Bill's picture and copy that. The side mouldings are the T type. I have never used the reproduction ones because you have to bend them for the rear corners. You can make a fixture to do this. They are tough because they are steel, not aluminum. I have found them in the Flea markets for slant window town sedans which is good because they are longer than the Victoria and can be cut to fit. If they have some rust pitting you can fill and sand. I have put these on both ways. Before painting and after painting. I now think it is better to put your top on before painting and mask off your material. Mind you, you want to put the rubber insert in after painting.

[art ebeling]

I think I understand it now. Do the side mouldings meet in the middle at the rear? And if so does the rubber continue as one piece? Anyone know of some originals for sale? I will post on the parts wanted also. The vendors advertise the side mouldings as aluminum, are they workable?

[Dale G.]

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Yes and yes. Unless since I did mine the rubber insert used to be one long piece. I have never seen the aluminum pieces but if they match they steel ones they should be good to use although you will have to make a fixture to bend the corners.

[art ebeling]

Got it! Thanks a lot

[Seth Swoboda]

I'll post some photos up here. I'll take a few this evening.

[Bob Bidonde]

The molding that Bill Cilker shows is the correct one. I recently installed the moldings using reproduction parts from Bratton's, and here is what I purchased:
29490 Roof Tacks, quantity 3;
29520 Front Roof Molding, quantity 1. This molding goes across the front of roof, and it is relatively easy to install;
29560 Top Molding, quantity 3. This molding goes along the sides and wraps around the back of the roof. Bending this molding around the 2 back corners is extremely difficult to do;
29570 Rubber Insert (optional). A better idea is to fill the molding with a good quality automotive grade sealant that paint will adhere to.

Do not use any silicone sealants because paint will not adhere to them. Go to your automotive paint supplier and purchase a couple of caulking-size tubes of the best autmotive grade urethane body sealer.

The original moldings were steel, but the reproduction moldings are aluminum with a greater thickness. I expect if you combine an original steel molding with a reproduction aluminum molding, there will be at step at the joint.