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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ridgefield, Ct
Posts: 3,449
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Ford placed a paper based stuffing between the inner and outer door skins, what have you found to be the best replacement? My plan is to prime and paint the inside first them install the pad before blocking the outside.
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They don't have to run to be enjoyed. I'm here to enjoy the hobby, and enjoy the cars no matter what they look like. Most of the worlds problems are electrical. |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Tx
Posts: 502
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May not be model a correct but you should use a plastic vapor barrier on the outer part of the inner door to prevent damage or brakedown to the interior panel
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#3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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Roadsters, Phaetons, and Open Pickups have no window openings, so the only way for water to get inside is through the side curtain rod hole. Still a good idea to have water proof backing. I've seen some upholstery jobs with very wrinkled door panels due to poor quality materials.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 8,099
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I used expanding foam on one of my roadster doors, the other door original stuffing was still intact. If you use expanding foam, you must be careful not to put TOO much or it can distort the door. Like brill cream, a little dab will do ya.
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#5 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ridgefield, Ct
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The thought of that in a plastic trash bag has run through my head. Rolled up sound deading material is another possibility.
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They don't have to run to be enjoyed. I'm here to enjoy the hobby, and enjoy the cars no matter what they look like. Most of the worlds problems are electrical. |
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#6 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: South California
Posts: 6,190
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BTW- from builders (Lowes) I found THREE grades of expanding foam. The middle grade used judiciously worked well. |
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#7 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 374
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When I had to fix a broken hinge on my 31 roadster, I found the doors were packed with wadded newspaper from about 1960. When I finished my work, I stuffed them with rags. I worried about the rags holding moisture, but I've only had it out in the rain twice.
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#8 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Naperville, IL
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I use Aok's method on all my door panels. Glue a layer of plastic sheeting over the inner door skin before you install the upholstered panel. I also attach a piece of heavy guage clear plastic over the inside of the door upholstery, under the garnish moldings, to protect the fabric from dirty shirts or arms. Gar Williams
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#9 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,987
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I have found Ridge Vent Filter to work great, sold at most home improvement stores it is a black plastic or fiber glass mat, comes in a roll of about 10-12" wide and about 10' long 1" thick and compressable. It is very fiborous and does not hold moisture.
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#10 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ridgefield, Ct
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I may be overthinking this but cutting two pieces of plywood and making a framework to keep the door from expanding might be worthwhile. Sideways expansion is ok, I'd only want to fill the door pocket area. I can almost hear that thump of a nice door closing.
__________________
They don't have to run to be enjoyed. I'm here to enjoy the hobby, and enjoy the cars no matter what they look like. Most of the worlds problems are electrical. |
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#11 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: South California
Posts: 6,190
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 8,099
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The expanding foam is only used between the large indented square, visible on the inside of the door and the outer skin to prevent vibration. The foam doesn't block any drain holes in the bottom of the door. The doors originally had something like cardbord stuffing in this area. I only had the small holes to work through and expanding foam was the easiest fix for me. without the stuffing or the foam, the door would probably be noisey . ...
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#13 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 374
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I sure hope you guys never need to remove that expanding foam. :-)
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#14 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: South California
Posts: 6,190
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![]() Quote:
Ha,ha..those doors will outlast me! And if they don't , they (brookville) makes NEW ones that are cheap ![]() I figure that all the roadster door bottoms were rusted away, due to the moisture that that Henry concoction in the door kept in over the decades. This foam isn't going to do that. |
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ridgefield, Ct
Posts: 3,449
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I think Lacquer thinner melts it.
__________________
They don't have to run to be enjoyed. I'm here to enjoy the hobby, and enjoy the cars no matter what they look like. Most of the worlds problems are electrical. |
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#16 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
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The only time that removing the foam might be a concern would be if you had to re skin the door. Using a heat gun should release the foam. if the door had to be re skinned the old panel would be ruined anyway and any heat distortion would be of no concern at that point. I would much rather have styrofoam as a deadner than paper or cardboard. styrofoam doesn't absorb water . Common sense must be used so as not to overfill and distort the outer panel.
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 8,099
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I think you are correct. Lacquer thinner on styrofoam would be sort of like poring whiskey in a styrofoam cup.
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#18 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ridgefield, Ct
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That is why Toby Keith likes Red Solo Cups. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKZqGJONH68
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They don't have to run to be enjoyed. I'm here to enjoy the hobby, and enjoy the cars no matter what they look like. Most of the worlds problems are electrical. |
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#19 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
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Thats a good one!!!!!
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