Woody top replacement

[38woody]

I unfortunately have to replace the top material on my 1938 woody because it tore out across the windshield. I can’t seem to find any guidance on how to replace this top. Do I start pinning it down on the front, rear, or one of the sides first? Also where is the most reputable place to get the long grain cobra top material and is the cotton looking backing you can see inside the car something that comes on the material or do I have to source that also.

[T Scott]

Classtique Upholstery is a good source for the cobra long grain. About $45 a yard on their web site. www.classtiqueupholstery.com

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by T Scott

Classtique Upholstery is a good source for the cobra long grain. About $45 a yard on their web site. www.classtiqueupholstery.com

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30350 Akerson St.
Lindstrom, MN 55045
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[Kube]

Originally Posted by 38woody

I unfortunately have to replace the top material on my 1938 woody because it tore out across the windshield. I can’t seem to find any guidance on how to replace this top. Do I start pinning it down on the front, rear, or one of the sides first? Also where is the most reputable place to get the long grain cobra top material and is the cotton looking backing you can see inside the car something that comes on the material or do I have to source that also.

I lay the material over the roof area and center it, being certain the grain is "straight". Then I tack a few places near the center on a long side, go around to the other side and do the same.
PULL the material TIGHT as you staple.
I get about 1' tacked down on each long side then place a few staples on each of the short sides. Again, do a few near the center at both the front and the back.
While you place the staples always pull the material tight while being certain you're not distorting it. You want the grain to run "straight" and if you pull too much in one direction, it'll get a wavy appearance.
Work your way around the roof. A few more staples on the left, then a few on the right, a few in the front and then a few in the back.
It does take some practice to do this task well.

Leave the four corners until last. I'd suggest you stay away from the corners until you are ready to trim them maybe 6" or so.

The corners, especially the rear corners are a total PITA to produce a beautiful appearance. Go slow, think it through and don't staple until you are confident.

A couple of other tips...
Use either a pneumatic stapler or an electric stapler. Stainless staples.
Allow the material to lay atop your car for at least a few days. It needs to relax after being rolled up.
Install the top on a hot day in the sun.
I strongly suggest you get the top done sans the corners, allow it to sit overnight and only then start to tackle the corners.
Don't laugh but a heat gun, once the top and corners are installed, is a great tool to tighten up any areas that are not taut.

[rockfla]

I would suggest doing it out in the sun, let it expand and soften the material a little bit, makes it a little more supple and easier to work, THEN once installed and in the garage, it will contract and/or shrink tight.

[GB SISSON]

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X 3 in the hot sun.

[38woody]

Thanks for the help. Kube is the picture you attached show a 38 because the front of my top has a different piece across the top to the windshield that holds the material. Mine has an aluminum piece that screws in the center with a plastic piece of trim the snaps around it.

[38woody]

Also is the top material available in the original brown color or do I have to go with black?

[Kube]

Originally Posted by 38woody

Thanks for the help. Kube is the picture you attached show a 38 because the front of my top has a different piece across the top to the windshield that holds the material. Mine has an aluminum piece that screws in the center with a plastic piece of trim the snaps around it.

That's a '39 deluxe. I have no clue if '38 is the same.
That "plastic piece of trim that snaps around it" does not sound correct to me.
I think I'd do some research before you proceed. You are about to embark a rather large project. It would be a shame if it was incorrect when you finished.

[38woody]

I will get a picture tomorrow to show you what it is. It’s never seemed right to me but my grandpa who owned the car since 68 had it restored and was big on things being correct.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by 38woody

I will get a picture tomorrow to show you what it is. It’s never seemed right to me but my grandpa who owned the car since 68 had it restored and was big on things being correct.

Just keep in mind that by 1968 that car was thirty years old a lot (most likely) got changed / modified. It is possible that your grandfather recreated something that was modified prior to his ownership.

I don't believe you will find the brown material. I'd restored that '39 about ten years ago and even then, there was no brown to be had. I painted mine.

[GB SISSON]

If you only find black and choose to paint it, I have had really good and lasting results on vinyl seats with the aerosol vinyl paint from napa stores. When I first used it 30 years ago I thought it was just a 'band aid' to last a year or so. Ten years later as a dd, it had gradually worn away on the obvious wear areas, but never a flaking or peeling issue.

[38woody]

Here is the picture of what is currently on the car. Sorry I got busy and just got a chance to take a picture.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 38woody

Here is the picture of what is currently on the car. Sorry I got busy and just got a chance to take a picture.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by 38woody

Here is the picture of what is currently on the car. Sorry I got busy and just got a chance to take a picture.

What you have is incorrect. I did some research and your '38 should match the '39 I had restored.

[GB SISSON]

While I'm sure your grandpa wanted the best for his car, his top guy fell a bit short on the trim-out. I know an old hillbilly that did this one with a firestone rubber pond liner for the roof material and a couple of of RV gutters, followed up with a length of mild steel strap across the header. It's not correct by any means, but it appears that he at least made an attempt to have all 3 pieces come together in a workmanlike manner....(He should have countersunk those screws and used oval heads though).

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

While I'm sure your grandpa wanted the best for his car, his top guy fell a bit short on the trim-out. I know an old hillbilly that did this one with a firestone rubber pond liner for the roof material and a couple of of RV gutters, followed up with a length of mild steel strap across the header. It's not correct by any means, but it appears that he at least made an attempt to have all 3 pieces come together in a workmanlike manner....(He should have countersunk those screws and used oval heads though).

[Kube]

Originally Posted by petehoovie

Pete, enlarging the image was a big help. All of the trim on that top is incorrect as are the screws.
As a side note of sorts, NO phillips head screws anywhere on a 1938 Ford. Not a one...

[Kube]

Pete, perhaps you might enlarge these two so the original poster has a better view of what his car should appear as.
Thanks...

[38woody]

Is there anywhere I could find an original piece of trim for the front of the windshield from someone reputable. I've been scammed twice on this site while looking for parts. Most recently a couple weeks ago by someone claiming to have parts I put a post looking for.