Deck lid Handle

[Alaska Jim]

I have a 1930 Model A coupe with a trunk, not a rumble seat. I would like to know which way the handle is supposed to point when the trunk is closed and latched,-- handle pointing down, or handle pointing up. I would also like to know who makes the best quality replacement locking handle and matching latch mechanism. The reason I ask these questions is that no matter which way I install the handle I can not get the trunk to lock. the keys turn in the handle, but it does not lock the handle and keep from opening the trunk. unless I am missing something or have a mis match of parts, I can not see any way the combination I have will lock. It looks as if the tang that moves when the key is rotated is to short and will not engage in the latch. It also looks as if it is not at the same height as the notch in the latch. this was all on the car when I bought the car. I don't know for sure the maker of the latch or the handle, but the rubber pad the handle mounts on says " Vintique". does anyone have any suggestions, and does any one have a recommendation as to wher I can buy the correct latch and handle assembly? Could anyone aso tell me if the '28-29 latch and handle are the same as the '30-31 latch and handle? If they are different could I have a mis-match going on? Thank you for any information, and help anyone can provide.-- Jim. Palmer, Alaska

[lrf]

Look at the Bratton's or Snyder's parts catalog, it says the trunk lid handle is short while the rumble seat (RS) is longer, my RS handle shaft is about 2 inches long while my original trunk handle shaft is about 1 to 1 1/2 inches long. I believe the handle points down when the lid is closed and then locked. Enjoy your "A".

[Oldgearz]

The bad news is that the repo handles, whether rumble or trunk, are not well made. Common problems are broken locking tang and inadequate distance between the latch mechanism and the handle gasket so that the latch cannot turn into the latching position. I had to go through 2 before one would work, and then I had to do a little filing on it. Never crank hard to lock or unlock or somethings gonna break. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

[Dennis Pereira]

The 28 / 29 are not the same as the 30 different latch and handle. And yes, a mismatch and repo parts are a good bet.

[Dale G.]

For a trunk handle, the handle points up and the shaft is shorter than a rumble handle. 29 handles and some early 30 handles were brass clad bright nickle plated and 30 to the end of production were stainless clad.

[Alaska Jim]

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Thank you all for your information and input, It is appreciated

[Kevin in NJ]

The difference in function is the 30-31 rumble handle has a longer shaft. 28-29 all lids and 30-31 trunk use the same length shaft.

The 28-29 will have plated brass and 30-31 are stainless (not sure of date cutoffs so please look up exact numbers).

The lock part is real simple. There is a knub on the end of the cylinder that is offset and fits into a slot of a short retangular bar that slides out to lock in the notches of the latch mech. The cylinders are made of pot metal and the knub can be sheared off if the bar is stuck. You might also have fit issues.

The 31 locks have a removable lock cylinder. You push in a pin on hole and turn to remove the cylinder. Some earlier cylinders you can make a tool and release a pin and others you need to take apart the lock from the bottom.

The repros are not very good. There are people who specialize in rebuilding originals.

Taking a lock apart is not really hard. You need to grind down the peened spots on the square shaft so you can slide the parts down the shaft. It just comes down to some mechanical common sense.

That is a quick overview of working with locks. Been a while since I have worked on some so I lack details from my brain. I think nothing of tearing them down and putting them back together. I have even converted a 31 scroll door handle to a rumble handle for my cabriolet.

[Bob Bidonde]

This may help:

[Alaska Jim]

Bob , Thankyou for your detailed illustration, it does help.--- Jim

[Alaska Jim]

Kevin , Thank you for the detailed information on the locking part of the handle, I appreciate it.--- Jim

[Kevin in NJ]

I think the type illustrated in the diagram you can get the cylinder out with a rod at the top of the slot.

I recall (maybe incorrect) that there were 2 types or so. One type the key slot went out to the edge of the cylinder. These you could slip a rod down and release the catch ring. You would also have to use a key or pick it to pull the cylinder.

If you do not know how to pick, well youtube is your friend. It not too hard to do. I have been doing it since I was a kid and my older brother did that Belsaw locksmith course.

[Mike Paul]

I’d like to know how to pick them as I lost my keys.

[nkaminar]

Use a small screwdriver to bias the lock towards the unlock direction. Put some torque on the lock with the screwdriver so that the tumblers will drop into the unlock position when you rake the tumblers. You can buy tools to rake the tumblers or use the straight part of a straightened bobby pin. With the torque on the lock rake the tumblers until the lock opens. It may take several tries. To rake the tumblers move the bobby pin or tool across the tumblers to push them into the unlocked position.

[California Travieso]

What’s the difference between the door handle and the trunk handle on a ‘30 Roadster? Are the interchangeable?

David Serrano