Exhaust System

[1930Ford]

1930 Model A, with B engine (driver - not a show car). New to us.

Tightened pipe connection to exhaust manifold, but you still you can smell the fumes from this vehicle - especially inside the garage. Very strong! Old muffler (but seems to be Model A style), with bendable tubing out back of vehicle for some reason.

I intend to take it to a local muffler shop and replace the entire exhaust system. I'm seriously thinking of having that system be a non-Model A system.

Has anyone else done this? Any benefit? Detriment?

[Mike Peters]

http://www.amuffler.com/products.html
If you have an old leaky muffler made 30 or 40 years ago, i would suggest you replace it with an Aries. They are pricey, but built to original Model A specs.

[1930Ford]

Mike - more than the $200-350 found at Snyder's? Didn't see a price when clicking on the link - moreover, many of the items that popped up seemed to be for a 1929.

[The Master Cylinder]

Originally Posted by 1930Ford

Mike - more than the $200-350 found at Snyder's? Didn't see a price when clicking on the link - moreover, many of the items that popped up seemed to be for a 1929.

Aries price list: http://www.amuffler.com/pricelist.pdf

[Patrick L.]

Many aftermarket stuff, including exhaust, doesn't fit well.

Aries is the best as the fellas said. Money well spent if you can't find a new/good original.

Also there are sleeves and gaskets available from the vendors that do work. The clamp is also directional and shouldn't to installed too tight.

The manifold flange area can be eaten up and may be needed to be resurfaced. Most fellas will buy a new one. I made a carbide cutter decades ago to clean them up.

[1930Ford]

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Convinced. I intend to purchase and install the Aries. Thank you all for the advice.

[Big hammer]

Your A will be happy! You will be happy with the sound and performance!

[Ed in Maine]

If I have to remove the exhaust pipe/muffler I use a coat of muffler paste on the exhaust manifold and then jack up the exhaust pipe snugly, then tighten the bolts. The muffler paste will provide a nice leak proof seal. Without it, I can see there would be some leakage at this metal to metal connection. I would also recommend you get a coupling #A-5234 that goes between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe for an even better leak proof connection. Ed

[nkaminar]

I use the Aries muffler and the exhaust paste at the manifold. Works great.

When using the floor jack to attach the exhaust pipe, keep the clamp a little loose then slightly wiggle the pipe so that it can find the best fit. Then tighten the clamp and keep wiggling the pipe as you do.

[Fhane]

If 12 volts causes such a strain on the ring gear, starter and Bendix, why not just use 6volts?

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Fhane

If 12 volts causes such a strain on the ring gear, starter and Bendix, why not just use 6volts?

I think this is a post from another thread.
As for the exhaust leak, this product helps. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...8532&cat=41736.
That said, I use a wipe of muffler paste or high temperature RTV silicone on the manifold flange.

[bavArian]

After my muffler clamp broke on a short run a week ago I ordered a new clamp and that sleeve.
Coated muffler and exhaust side of the sleeve with a layer of muffler paste, used the jack to press the exhaust against the muffler until the gap was closed and bolted it tight with the new clamp. No leak and it doesn't sound like a tank anymore!