55/56 Ford Steering Gear Questions

[Hot Rod Reverend]

If you have been following my resto of the the front end frame, suspension, steering gear, and sheet metal then you know I need to rebuild my steering gear. I opted for a 56 unit since the shaft is shorter and I like the 56 wheel better than the 55.

I have the 56 steering gear disassembled to the point of needing to pull the shaft/worm gear assembly out of the box, but there is a seal in the way. What is the best way to pull that seal out since the shaft goes through the center of the seal and I don't want to booger it up?

My 55 shop manual says that the 55 steering gear simply pulls out of the box once the sector gear is removed...ain't happenin' on the 56 model I can tell you that.

What differences are there between 55/56 steering gear boxes?

[jimc9990]

I rebuilt my 56 gear at least 15 years ago but can not remember how i did it. I looked in my shop manual and the only seal i can see is at the upper end of the gear box. It look's to be inside the steering shaft cap. I don't see any retainer clips or anything holding it so it looks like you would just remove the four cap bolts and slide it up off of the shaft. It must have not been to hard or else i would not have been able to do it. It was the only steering gear i have rebuilt. I will admit time has a way of causing you not to remember things. So , sorry i can't be more help , i'm sure somebody will come along with more information. ____JIM




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[Hot Rod Reverend]

I looked through my diagrams, manuals, etc, and all that I can see is that the only "seal" there is ---- is located under that upper end cap you describe that is held to the body with four capscrews. It looks as if there is bearing race/bearing under that pressed into the body of the box, and it looks like the bearing itself is pressed onto the shaft that holds the worm gear. The funny thing is that shop manual says to "pull out the shaft and worm gear" lol that race/bearing is pressed in there and I am not sure how to go about getting it done.

One thing I will add... there is quite a bit of "wobble" when I move the shaft. It seems like the bearing for the shaft/worm gear is very worn... I don't think there is supposed to be an 1/8" of play down there in the steering gear body.

[rick55]

The top and bottom bearing on the worm are ball races running on a tapered surface. The column should lift straight out, but you will need to remove the sector shaft first. My boxes did not have seals on the steering column shaft.
The only seal is on the bottom of the sector shaft. There is a felt washer that sits against the housing on the box on the steering column shaft.
The lack of a seal on this shaft acts as a level indicator for oil in the box. Oil will leak out from here til it gets to the correct level.
If you are overhauling the box you need to replace the sector shaft seal. Be aware that there are two different size seals for this shaft depending on the year of box.

[Daves55Sedan]

To remove the steering shaft from the gearbox, remove the four bolts at the back of the housing, then simply pull the steering shaft straight out from the back. Be careful not to lose the thin shims that will come off with it on the retainer.
The worm gear is pressed onto the steering shaft. If you want to replace the gear, use heat and appropriate blunt instruments to remove it.
Fomoco intended for the worm and shaft to be replaced as a unit. But nowadays, some resto suppliers have made the worm gear available by itself.

BTW, be very careful not to bend the tube in the center of the gearbox when removing or re-installing the shaft and worm gear back into the gearbox. The slightest bump can cause the tube to obtain a hairline crack. Then your freshly rebuilt gearbox will leak 90wt oil forevermore.

[Daves55Sedan]

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If the worm gear/shaft assembly wobbles in the housing when fully assembled, remove a shim from between the back of the gearbox housing and the retainer. Doing this will tighten the bearing pre-load. Check the shop manual for the proper pre-load with a torque guage. Remove or add shims as necessary to obtain pre-load within specified parameters. Also if there is too much wobble, that can also cause the center tube to crack at the base. Repairing that can be almost impossible if you intend to re-use the tube for your horn wire.

[Hot Rod Reverend]

doh!


I feel stupid.
I looked again at the box and shaft/worm assembly tonight when I got home late and follow AussieBill's advice. Gripping the shaft, a simple tap, tap, tap on the box with a hammer of negligible weight and size and the crazy thing just slipped right free. Here are the shots.






Looks like it is time for a new worm gear however... the oil and grease were covering the chips, nicks, gouges, and what have you. Rough!