Condensors !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Agh.................

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Does this sound familar ??????

My 36 Flathead starts right up and idles perfect, however once the temp has come up it just doesnt want to rev up to any rpm at all and wil sometimes just die out . Let the engine cool and it will run good at low speed and then break up when rpm is added.....

Pretty common story. This customer is approx 100 miles from us and has been fighting the problem for a long time. ( couple years) After talking to him on the phone he agreed to meet me at the shop this morning with a couple boxes of distributors etc.

He also brought 4 new condensors (Macs) still in the wrapper. Every condensor he brought tested defective!!!!!! They all were below .18 mfds using a sun condensor tester !!!

Now here is the problem, the ford specs call for a .36mfd condensor on the helmet unit. The .36 is the storage capacity of the condensor. When cold it may run ok with the smaller capacity but once warmed up the engine a coil circuit needs the full .36 to prevent arcing at the contacts causing a misfire.

The real issue is that i really dont have a good answer for the problem as my box of condensors also had a couple low resistance , low capacity units as well.

If it was my car i think i would use a Vertex mag condensor and figue out a way to mount it properly ...............

Oh well at the very least it isnt monday anymore!!!!!

[Mike B]

Originally Posted by BUBBAS IGNITION

Oh well at the very least it isnt monday anymore!!!!!

But you do realize that another is coming...lol!

[keith oh]

I have always found if the condenser loads up then fires when grounded it will run the engine. I would send the coil and a couple of the condensers to Skip for a rebuild and see what he gets checking the condensers. Just a thought.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by keith oh

I have always found if the condenser loads up then fires when grounded it will run the engine. I would send the coil and a couple of the condensers to Skip for a rebuild and see what he gets checking the condensers. Just a thought.

Keith,

All these units have a Skip coil on them.
We test condensor with a Sun condensor tester the best ever made . Checks with a load for series resistance, leakage and proper capacity.
In our case all would run the engine , just wouldnt rev up even on a test machine when running...........

Installed a .36 unit and it runs fine.......

[AnthonyG]

I know a lot of you don't like them but my Mallory electronic works flawlessly when set up correctly and I believe the condenser is an integral part of the electronic's so the conventional condenser goes away, I love it!

[Terry,OH]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I have tried to run a 40 engine on Mac's condensers and every one was bad. I have only had good luck with NAPA and the Vertex Mag. condenser. Beside testing the condenser at room temperature (not a valid test, because they do not operate under these circumstance when the engine is at operating temperature) the condenser should be heated, if the capacitor test set results change with heat, the condenser is still defective.

[dwick01]

How come they can't make good condensers? Don't they have any kind of quality control, and if so, who holds them accountable? You would think the big retailers (Mac's, Drake, Carpenter, etc.) would come down on them. The big boys need to step up and protect their customers from buying garbage with their hard-earned money.

[G.M.]

We have used and recommended 100's of IH-200 condensers from Napa for over 10 years and never had or heard of 1 failure. Use the grounding tube attached to the coil by one of the screws that hold the coil to the distributor. On the 36 type coils put a 10-32 screw 3/4" long through the hole in the coil with the head inside the coil. Use a lock washer and nut to secure the screw. Put the terminal end of the wire on the condenser on the screw with another lock washer and nut. On the 39 type coil put a screw with a lock washer and nut on the brass tab on the bottom of the coil using another lock washer and nut to hold the wire terminal on. Use the coil hold down screw on the passenger side to hold and ground the condenser. G.M.

[DD931]

I have noticed several NOS Ford condensers on E-bay.

[Lawrie]

Was there not a post a while back that gave the part number of an electrical capacitor with the same rating that would do the job?.
Lawrie

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by DD931

I have noticed several NOS Ford condensers on E-bay.

This is why there are so many condenser problems, NOS are old and the electrolytic dries up. There were drums of old condensers sold over the years, they are found in old parts stores that closed up years ago. Larger parts store rebuilt the distributors and purchased the parts in cardboard drums. G.M.

[russcc]

The Vertex condenser from Pat Mason at Mason Racing Ignitions is the way to go. They are expensive, (something like $30.), and have to be adapted to our distributors, but that is a small price to pay for peace of mind, and getting home without the help of an expensive tow.

[Jack E/NJ]

Adapting 12v Xler condensers, even used ones, work just fine on a 6 or 12v points setup. I've had one on a 38 helmet for years. And I've got a few dozen more used ones that I saved from the old days just in case that one goes belly up someday. 8^)

Jack E/NJ

[koates]

Hi there, I bought four 18-12300-A new repro condensers about 3 years ago from Macs. They fit 32 to 36 ford V8. I opened the sealed plastic bag on one this year and found a clear sticky fluid had leaked out of it. It tested faulty. Tested the others and one was very leaky and down on capacity. Two out of four being good these days aint bad is it ??. Regards, Kevin.

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by koates

Hi there, I bought four 18-12300-A new repro condensers about 3 years ago from Macs. They fit 32 to 36 ford V8. I opened the sealed plastic bag on one this year and found a clear sticky fluid had leaked out of it. It tested faulty. Tested the others and one was very leaky and down on capacity. Two out of four being good these days aint bad is it ??. Regards, Kevin.

Would you trust the other two????? G.M.

[rotorwrench]

Wax paper was used in most of the early condensers as the dielectric in the roll up of the metal foil strip & dielectric paper then the roll with a pigtail lead attached was placed into the little can. Later technology uses mylar film material and metal foil strip in the roll. Many of the ones I've purchased over the years seperated the pigtail lead with only a slight tug or they just plain fell out. The lead was barely soldered to the foil strip or it was a cold solder. This stuff started to show up as soon as the electronic ignition systems started to take over the market.

The old NOS stuff generally suffers from deterioration of the wax paper. High temperature storage will melt the wax right out of the paper. Modern ones should have nothing inside that will turn to any form of liquid unless they are still using wax paper or some other dielectric substance inside the little can. One of these days we may be reduced to buying hand made condensers from some entrepeneur that is tired of getting crap parts from Mexico or China. What used to be so simple is now complicated by corporate indifference. Even Echlin may end up going south soon (literally) if they haven't already.

[tiger.1000]

I need a condenser or two for my 32 Model B.....any recommendations for a good supplier of such ?