|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 136
|
![]()
My A hasn't run in about a year. My plan is to drain and refill all fluids prior to starting. Should I pour some of the oil down the distributor shaft hole in order to lube the top end? Anything else? MMO or similar in the oil and gas?
Thanks in advance. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Cocoa, Florida
Posts: 1,609
|
![]()
Hello, I would pour a quart in the Dist. hole. Some MMO in the fuel also wouldn't hurt, be sure to mix it in. If it settles out in the tank it will make the engine smoke a little in my experience.
I have a 31 Woody also. Welcome to the Barn!
__________________
Wanted: Simmons Super Power Head ![]() Craig Likon 1931 150B |
![]() |
![]() |
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northern New Jersey
Posts: 1,262
|
![]()
You can remove the spark plugs and squirt a few squirts of motor oil into the cylinders a day or two before your planned start up and perhaps hand crank the engine a few times before the actual start-up,
You can pour some oil down the distributor shaft hole and the oil galley should fill with a few cranks of the hand crank. I would start the engine and warm it to operating temperature to burn off any condensation, and then drain the oil and refill it with fresh oil. Any contaminants drain better when suspended in the oil. Check the water level in the radiator too and add some if needed. I stored my A in an unheated garage in New England for 20 years, from early September until the following July and did nothing to winterize it, not even charge the battery. It would start right up every July and run just like it ran the previous September. The last Interstate battery lasted 8 years with no attention. While I do believe in preventive maintenance, I think most owners over-fuss with their A's. ......i.e."Don't fix it if it ain't broke". Last edited by Mikeinnj; 01-07-2013 at 09:51 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 136
|
![]()
Thanks for the tips guys.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: morrisburg ontario
Posts: 349
|
![]()
[QUOTE=A31Woody;567687]Thanks for the tips guys.[/QUOTE
jumped on thread seeing prolonged storage, wish mine sat idle for a year . iam working on mine where motor has not run in 40 years. just took pan off today as to remove crank bearings and apply some type of pre lube to surfaces. so far just pan off now. bought car in 1970 got side tracted and now determined to get this up and running. fredski |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kalamazoo
Posts: 1,656
|
![]() Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Steve |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
|
![]()
When I bought my 1931 Town Sedan it had been setting since 1957. I replaced the bad cam gear, put in gas and a battery, and it fired right up and purred like a kitten. I don't remember if I pulled the plugs to oil the cylinders, but it's a good idea after that long.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|