Distributro repair idea

[redmodelt]

After a while the center flange where the upper plate rides get worn around the center allowing the upper plate to move back and forth which changes the gap in the points. We also have a number that show cracks in the thin part. What if the distributor was put in a centering holder and that area was machined out and a sleeve pressed in to bring back to size. Has it been done? The distributor body being cast iron, would a steel sleeve work?

[2manycars]

Sounds like a good idea if you have the equipment. An alternative is to buy a new one, assuming the new ones are accurate.

[MikeK]

Just do what everyone else does- peen a ring just outside the hole on the plate. That shrinks the plate hole to match the dizzy body.

[redmodelt]

Peen should work if you are doing 1 and it's your own. If at some time you needed to replace the upper plate you would need to repeat the process.
At shop rate to peen and fit the plate if you have a number of them to do verses putting on a jig running a center mill and pressing in a sleeve might be more cost effective.

[Marco Tahtaras]

I'd guess there is typically only .003"-.005" wear to removing the slight lip from the housing and peening the plate is quite easy and not too time consuming. Most of us won't need to repeat the process in our lifetime on any particular car.

You are dealing with a pretty thin wall Measuring about .075" which doesn't give you much to work with. My guess is that with a ring that thin (maybe .030") you not only have to be very accurate on the interference fit but probably need a material that has slightly less thermal expansion than the cast housing.

[d.j. moordigian]

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redmodelt,

I know what your saying. A press fit sleeve at the upper bushing area. That area
in the upper bush is very thin(like installing bushings in the oil pump)! How about
bushing the upper plate? I've seen that in other Dist. before.

[MikeK]

You may find something useable in the Chicago Rawhide "Speedi-Sleeve" catalog. LINK
You may have to cut the sleeve to length.

Other options are nickel weld buildup, or heavy nickel electroplate buildup before remachining. In any case, I don't see any method that would be quicker overall unless you have a whopping big barrel full of castings. Then there's the other issue. . The dreaded assumption that those plate holes are all within a tight tolerance range!

[d.j. moordigian]

Mike,

I would think the upper plate should register off the ID,..correct? Bush the upper
plate.

[MikeK]

Originally Posted by d.j. moordigian

Mike,

I would think the upper plate should register off the ID,..correct? Bush the upper
plate.

Bushing a worn plate does not address the original problem posted by redmodelt. He wants to restore the castings to original spec so any correct, unworn upper plate will fit. That way there would be no need to individually fit NOS or ??Repop? plates to bodies, nor a need to have any plates other than stock size.

[Brentwood Bob]

I think a crack in the housing means replace it. If there is wear that thinned the casting it also wore the track around the casting that the plate rides in. Too much wear all over. Bob

[d.j. moordigian]

You know,...a better response would be. What dose a NOS distributor measure? How much is the housing worn?

[redmodelt]

I looked at a distributor casting today in the shop. The area that the plate sits on and rides around is thin. I still have an idea of how it could work but the possible cost saving of restoring the casting may just have gone out the window. Thanks for letting me bounce the idea off you guys.
MarkG

[Iron Shaper]

I just rebiult my distributer earlier this week and the hub that the plate rides on was worn bad. I was having trouble keeping the points gap set. I machined the center hub down to the bottom plate then made a bronze bushing that replaced that area and also extended down into the distributer as the upper shaft bushing. Then made the lower shaft bushing and installed it. Works nice so far.I do realize that this is not a permanent fix, but works for now. I also drilled a small hole down thru the cam screw into the shaft then cross drilled one side. This will allow me to oil the upper shaft bushing. Being a machinist also helps.

Walter