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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Winnetka, CA
Posts: 323
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Hi everyone,
The windshield I have ('36 ford truck) for my project has the side screws so deeply rusted that I haven't been able to remove them. I tried a wire brush, WD40, PB Blaster, diet coke bath, heat and the screws are not even moving or coming loose. I am thinking of tapping, drilling them and maybe remove them this way. Anybody has any advise on how to remove these stubborn screws, other than the mentioned above? There are some repairs that I will need to do to the frame itself, to remove some rusted through areas on it. Anybody has a picture of how the windshield comes together? I see the frame itself is two halves that meet in the middle and attaches with the 4 screws...are the 2 halves separate and a 3 piece in the middle, inside of the frame, that joins it with the 4 screws? or does one half actually goes inside the other and bolts on the middle? Sorry, I've never seen one apart and could use a visual before starting to cut or trim for repair. It was hard to find so I don't to risk it :-) Thank you in advance
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...let your brain do the thinking and your fingers do the walking... |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Masterton, New Zealand
Posts: 3,998
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Yes, there are the two halves, top and bottom. Each side has an insert, about 2" long that has 4 drilled and tapped holes in it, that fits up inside the hollow sections in the two frame halves, and the screws screw into said holes and hold frame together and in alignment. Possibly your best method would be to carefully drill the countersunk screw heads off, which should then enable you to separate the two halves. Then you can remove the two inserts and deal with the remaining stubs that are left of the screws.
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Unfortunately, two half wits don't make a whole wit! |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Ventura, CA
Posts: 2,466
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Several months ago I disassembled a '36 windshield frame using a combination of PB Blaster and heat from an electric heat gun (Harbor Freight).. I took my time letting the PB soak for awhile, then I would apply heat for a few minutes, more PB. My last trick was to put the correct size of a screw driver, hammer head (Harbor Freight) into the slot, gently taping it with a small hammer. Acts like an impact wrench..
After a couple of days of painstaking heat, PB, and light hammering, the frame came apart.. The effort helped to loosen the steel block that holds the screws and slides into the frame..
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Bill.... 36 5 win cpe |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Winnetka, CA
Posts: 323
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Brian, thank you for the description. That's what I was thinking but wasn't sure.
Blucar, I will try the PB and heat before cutting the screw...I am in no rush, so that my help. Than you both
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...let your brain do the thinking and your fingers do the walking... |
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#5 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Ventura, CA
Posts: 2,466
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Getting the screws out is only half of the problem because the securing block is usually rusted in place.. That is why patience, heat and PB Blaster works so well.. As a general rule I always insert a screw driver into the slot, ect., of a screw, smacking the head of the screw driver before I attempt to remove the screw. Amazing how quickly the screw comes loose..
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Bill.... 36 5 win cpe |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 480
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