No Shocks??

[Tom Cavallaro]

While attempting to grease my 1930 A Coupe I found I couldn't grease everything because of the different fittings. Do I need a special grease gun? Also while under the car to do some greasing I didn’t expect to find no shocks at all! The holes are in the frame where they were at one time. I have read there is a difference in the shocks as to their placement, but are the shock links all the same? Also, I have no anti rattlers left on the car…all rotted away. My question is; how many anti rattlers are needed and being more specific…longs and shorts how many of each?

[gunmetal blue]

there are shocks with different lenght arms and there is counter clock wise shock body and a anti-clock wise.
(2) 6- 4 long 2 short
grease fitting you can buy that will fit on your regualor grease gun.

[msmaron]

You have front and rear shock, and front and rear shock arms. You have to get an adapter for your grease gun thats all, The anti rattlers come in sets of you buy the repos. You might want to get a hold of Les Andrews books, that will help get you on the right track to start and take one job at a time. They are available at any parts house and have you joined a club in your area?? very helpful as well as this site.
good luck

[Tom Cavallaro]

So, is the arms for the rear shocks the longer ones, or is the the other way around? Thanks for answering back so fast...I'll start making an order. I have Les Andrews Vol. 2. but not sure of the info. I'm reading that's why all the questions.

[31Tudor]

The rear arms the longer ones.

[msmaron]

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You might want to get a copy of the Judging standards also and try to get ORIGINAL Shocks are arms,, they fit better!! You can get the anti rattlers from Mike's or brattons very easy, of course originals are much better also and can usually be found on ebay very easy..

[Patrick L.]

I think you'll find the car will ride and handle nicer with decent shocks.. The front arms are different from the rear arms.. There are 2 shocks, counter/anti-clockwise rotation and clockwise rotation, such as, RR/LF and LR/RF.. Decent rebuilt shocks can be bought as well as new ones.. The new shocks from Bill Stipe are said to be of great quality but stay away from those that don't require any fluid[ they are a waste of money].. There are 2 types of shock links, tube and dog-bone.. There are 2 styles of anti-rattlers, flat and the '31 wire type. One for each brake rod.. The original grease fittings should still be able to to be used but can be changed to newer zerk fittings or change the gun end to use the original fittings..

[Tom Wesenberg]

I usually find repro brake rods need to be ground narrower at the eye in order to fit through the slot in the antirattler.

[Tom Cavallaro]

Thanks, I almost bought the complete set of shocks from brattons. Patrick L, how do I find Bill Stipe Shocks. My brake rods are still there, and the anti rattlers are the flat type looking at what's there, looks like a y that's why I couldn't tell how many are long and how many short, looking at pictures in Vol. II book. There is one other question, there is something very hard..metal between the axle and the spring perch only on the right side. I can't seem to identify what it chould be. Does anyone have any idea. I'll post a picture if needed.

[Fred K-OR]

As mentioned above, it may be a good idea to get the NO I book of Andrews. It gives the "basic" stuff about your A. The NO II book just gives you ideas on how to modify your A.

You can buy a "set" of the current type of grease fittings from most vendors. Then go about changing the ones over you need to change or if you don't want to change, you can get a "conversion" type tool to fit on your current grease gun so that you can use your current gun on the old type fittings. Again most vendors have this thing.

The need for shocks may depend on how you want to drive your car. If you only drive it to the local stores to get coffee, etc. then you may not need them. But if you want to get out and drive it on longer trips, then it is worth getting them. There are a number of vendors that supply shocks. You may want to look at the list of vendors listed on the top line of the Ford Barn site to come up with the options. I used M & S Hydraulics in Oregon for my shocks. They sell a set of new aftermarket shocks.

[Patrick L.]

There are several fellas that sell 'rebuilt' shocks, I think the quality and price can vary considerably.. Most 'A' vendors sell new shocks including those from Bill Stipe.. That said, don't buy the $700-750 sets that do not require fluid.. Stipe's are well above $1000/set, but, I don't know how to get a hold of him..

[mot]

ron rude on this site sells rebuilt shocks
i just looked a set he had for sale at turlock and they looked great as did his carburetors
his carbs all have the flow test results for the jets
and ron is a great man to work with
also the break rod springs are not anti rattlers they have a job of returning your brake pedal to normal,thats why its important they be placed to push the break rods forward for the front brakes and rearward for the rear brakets
if they were only for rattles it wouldnt make any difference where they were placed
heres a picture of the shock arms
the longer ones are the rears
there are many different varieties
they will all work,just try and get them matched

[Tom Cavallaro]

Thanks. Now I can't figure out how to post a picture here for you to see the piece of metal between the Pirch and Axle so if you go to my profile and look at what I have downloaded as an Album you will see a clear pic. Unless there is a grease cup of some sort???

[Flathead]

Looks like you may have a wishbone problem, if I am seeing this correctly.

[columbiA]

Looks like the upper fork of the rh radius rod is broken Will need to remove axle assy to repair.Perch will likely need to be pressed out as they can be badly rusted.Best to totaly rebuild axle if you want good steering.

[Tom Cavallaro]

Wow, didn't expect that! The left side perch looks the same without the metal piece hanging from it...aint there... got my work cut out for me. Thanks guys...never would not have received this info. any where else. This will take the rest of the winter and spring to complete this job...cold and not much light in the garage..lol. Thanks again.

[Bob C]

Here is a link to Bill Stipe web site. I think he posted that he is not going to be making shock any longer.
http://specialtymotorcams.com/pages/aboutus.html

Bob

[Patrick L.]

It appears the fellas are right, in that, it looks like you have a radius rod problem.. The radius rod attaches to the spring perches and extends to the bellhousing.. You'll have to crawl under this monster and take look.. If the rod is broken/defective then the car really shouldn't be driven until its fixed..

[Patrick L.]

Bob C, no link.. Please post one. I need a set of shocks..

[d.]

Tom,
slow down, relax... and buy the Les Andrews Vol I book and the Restoration/ Judging Standards available from MAFCA or MARC. Read them over carefully and proceed slowly. Join a local Model A club. As usual, a little knowledge goes a long way. Brattons, Snyders, Berts and Mikes are established vendors offering good parts.