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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 6,039
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I am thinking about redoing at least one of my fenders. But it's been 30 years since I did B&F work, and I know things have changed. I still have my old Graco spray gun, and I'd like to use that , since I know how it works. But what is the proper sequence of current materials, and what are the current materials?
This question may be too big for this forum, but if so perhaps someone could suggest a site that would explain current prep and paint procedure? |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 78
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What paint system do you plan on using? 2k enamel, basecoat or acrylic lacquer?
What ever you choose I would first read the tech sheet before you start. If you use one paint system right through from etching primer to top coat clear and follow the manufactures tech sheet you won't have any problem. You will also have to decide if you are stripping the fender to bare metal and starting over. I never like painting over anyones else's jobs because you never know what they did and some paints systems are not compatible, ie basecoat over nitrocellulose lacquer. |
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#3 | |
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![]() Quote:
http://franksvickie.webs.com/paint.htm
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What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 6,039
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Hoo boy! I see things have changed more than I expected! Paint systems? I dunno! I guess I'll be stripping my fenders down, Spider, for the very reasons you express.
Mike, thanks for the link. I'll read it tonight and see how much I don't know. Last edited by 700rpm; 08-02-2010 at 10:36 PM. |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 361
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About seven years ago, there was an excellent article in the "Restorer" about modern finishes and their practical use. I believe the article was titled something like "From the Ground Up...". Yes, the materials have changed for the better, but the prep and application hasn't changed that much. Using proper caution, you'll enjoy the process and results. There are lacquer and acrylic enamel jobs out there that still show well after decades, too, so you have more choices now. You can consult me at [email protected] . You may look at my website www.olympic-speedsters.com . Your determination to "get up to speed" before starting out indicates that your end result will probably be excellent.
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#6 |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Minn
Posts: 1,580
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Has anybody used the new water-based paints?
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stockholm, NJ
Posts: 106
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I was told by my jobber that you need a License or certificate or something to buy water-base because they don't want Joe Backyard using it. At least that's what he told me and maybe it only applies to Jersey. From what I understand it must be shot in a booth because it needs the air movement to pull the moisture out and wont air dry in a garage. I'm sure there are jobbers that will sell it to you though.
Bob |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Princeton, NJ
Posts: 966
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I was under the impression that just the basecoat is water-based, and the clearcoat is still a conventional urethane mix.
Doug
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My '31 S/W sedan project:http://31ford.dougbraun.com My restoration diary: http://dougbraun.com/blog |
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#10 |
Senior Member
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Saw the same thing on TV.
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What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II |
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