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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 201
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Im converting my model a to 40 ford brakes and have a question. When I oblong the holes on the backing plates to fit my original spindles, do I need to weld up the not used portions of the original 40 mounting holes? I have the adapter insert rings so there's no play.
Thoughts anyone? Thanks! |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: ramona, ca.
Posts: 58
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i didnt on mine.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: St Charles , Missouri
Posts: 2,032
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Banky,
In my opinion you are taking a step backwards in reliable braking using hydraulics on the stock "A". A properly rebuilt mechanical system on the A works best and can stop them on a dime ( so to speak). The hydraulic conversions can be plagued with a variety of issues. Fit of backing plates ( don't forget spacer rings on front. master cylinder location/access, emergency brake conversion... etc. It's way to much trouble for no better braking. I would put the brakes on my stock '30 Tudor up against my '40 ford convertible any day! Most folks complain of poor braking on the "A's" but it's usually because they aren't rebuilt, adjusted, and everything as they should be. I've done many brake jobs and have had great results with the guys in St. Louis area. Does it cost a few bucks... yes... but so does the conversion and it is an incredible hassle. Whatever it's worth... that's my 2 cents worth. Larry S. St. Louis |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 564
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I mounted the plates with the wheel cylinders on the bottom. Works fine and mount plates with original holes.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: ca.
Posts: 2,524
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this is the best i have found ............. steve
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=124112
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V4f |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: new britain,ct 06052
Posts: 9,428
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Paul in CT |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 4,251
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I don't on mine. If you have the rear end apart, take about .090" off the outer ends where the backer bolts on, this will negate the possible need for axle shims. I use silicone fluid, DOT-5, as it doesn't remove paint and won't gather moisture which is what ruins cylinders.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Suttons Bay, Mich.
Posts: 3,443
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Weld up the original holes with plugs and re - drill the new backing plate holes. I did this on an a before and the oblonged hole method shouldn't be done. The piston ring that acts as a spacer that comes with the kit cracked on both sides while tightening the backing plate bolts.I took my backing plates and spindles to a laser cuter I know and had the spacer ring cut out of steel instead of using the piston ring. I welded it to the backing plate.
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Respecting and Resurrecting Ford Model A's. |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 4,251
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p.s. If you can get 1935 drums, they fit right on and are made for wire wheels, no adapter needed.
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 1,013
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I gotta go with Larrys40's good advice.
My original Model A brakes work really well because they are set up correctly. I do not worry about stopping my car. The only way I would convert would be to have front disc brakes/drum rear but for the money and hassle....why! |
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