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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 75
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![]() Hi Guy's,,, I went to install the drag link on my 30 A...I think I had it right, short "opening" to the front...I'am using the new Nylon "kit"...all the ball's have been replaced... Wow,,,something's WRONG !!!...I can bearly turn the wheel & the car's on jackstands...Really shocked me as I have been working the the old A for the past 40 year's... Maybe the tie rod end's are too tight ?...Maybe the spindles are too tight on the axle ?..I'am going to have to take the whole front end apart and see what's up ????... Am I right on the drag link position ?...... Almost done with the car and now I can't steer it ?? Greg out West |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: new britain,ct 06052
Posts: 9,428
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With out the drag link connected will the steering wheel turn?? Will the spindles rotate on the axle??
Paul in CT |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
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Our Master Guru, Claude, did his first set and they were tight! O.K. after driving awhile. Maybe they have to "burnish in" to free up???
I read about one guy who thought the Teflon ones didn't need grease. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 4,251
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You still need grease. Tie rod position should make no difference.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stayton, Oregon
Posts: 3,806
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Would seem like this would be a good start to see where the problem is.
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Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Grafton, MA
Posts: 1,273
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Aha - somehow I missed Fred's post - didn't intend to be repetitive! |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: ca.
Posts: 2,524
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i have the nylon kit also . never a problem . go back to the start & do over ...... steve
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V4f |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Southern Maine
Posts: 162
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Did you replace any thing else at the same time? If you didn't did you get the right parts in the right order in the drag link? one end has cupped washer then the pitman ball then ball cap then spring then plug with flat face, other end spring first then ballcap then steering ball then end plug that is radiused to accept the ball. Mine steered hard when I replaced parts & I had the flat cap against the ball insrtead of the radiused cap (inattention to detail). switched out & smooth as silk. Just a thought before tearing things apart. If sequence is ok were the pitman & steering arm balls round? Just a thought.
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
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If balls were self repaired and not perfect round & smooth, it would eat away teflon. In this case, steel might last a little longer if kept greased often.
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"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,746
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I have teflon seats,shortened pitman arm needle brgs & needle thrust in steering box & on jack stands you can twirl it stop to stop with little finger.On the road its like F-100 steering but quicker.
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Largo Florida
Posts: 7,225
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Same question as Tim, what else was done ?? How easily/hard did it turn before installing the drag link ?? If you tried it and it was fine with the new tie-rod cups while the drag link was still off, then something must have happened with drag link..
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