rear main nuts problem

[MrTube]

I have been trying to drop our rear main bearing cap for some time. I am doing this with the engine in the vehicle and its kind of difficult.

It is difficult to get a socket in between the cap and the bell housing. I have a swivel socket which is not quite deep enough but a normal socket with a wobble extension works decent.

Problem is they won't budge. Is there something I am missing? I removed the cotter pins of course.

Will an impact gun work on this or am I going to just break the socket and or extension? The wobble extension doesn't seem like the strongest connection in the world.

Also if there is anyone in the Metuchen NJ area that could help it would be greatly appreciated. I am dropping the cap because we have a pretty bad rear main leak.

Chris J

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Originally Posted by MrTube

I have been trying to drop our rear main bearing cap for some time. I am doing this with the engine in the vehicle and its kind of difficult.

It is difficult to get a socket in between the cap and the bell housing. I have a swivel socket which is not quite deep enough but a normal socket with a wobble extension works decent.

Problem is they won't budge. Is there something I am missing? I removed the cotter pins of course.

Will an impact gun work on this or am I going to just break the socket and or extension? The wobble extension doesn't seem like the strongest connection in the world.

Also if there is anyone in the Metuchen NJ area that could help it would be greatly appreciated. I am dropping the cap because we have a pretty bad rear main leak.

Chris J

Mr. Tube, if you are using a 3/8 " drive, on a real tight Nut, and extended out there is to much rubber, or give, in a 3/8 " shaft, you are working against your self. If you are using a 1/2 " drive, get a thin wall socket, and may be still have to grind that, as some rear main cap just don't have the room to get a socket on with out binding, especially at a angle. Use a breaker bar if you can, and remember where you put your special rear main tool. Herm.

[V4F]

just for grins , i would loosen the motor & move it forward to get at them . better yet , just pull the motor . youll get a better job that way .......... think about retorqueing them a couple of times to get the shims correct !

[MrTube]

Thanks for the replies.
I have considered pulling the motor because it would be a lot easier to do the oil pan and the fact that if the babbit is damaged it will have to come out anyway.

Do I need anything other than basic tools and one of those eye bolts to pull the motor? We have a decent sized fork lift here we could use to lift it out. Then I'm sure I would want an engine stand to make it easy to work on.

And of course the classic question, engine and trans together or separate?

[Wick]

Pull the motor so you can seal the oil pan up real good.
Upside down your in for a fight getting the pan back on right the first time. Nothing like a bad rear main oil leak.
Wick

[Tom Wesenberg]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

If you pull the motor, I'd leave the tranny in place. Be sure to remove the throttle cross linkage FIRST. I wouldn't use a forklift, but find a chainfall, engine lift, or winch to do the lifting.

[Mikeinnj]

If you pull the motor and leave the transmission, prop something under it to keep it from falling to the ground. i woild get the correct thin wall socket and use a 1/2 " breaker bar with an extension. They can be tough to loosen but don't give up. I think the specs are for 80 foot pounds torque on the rear main. Obviously the pan is off already, just use a few studs hand threaded into the block at the corners to line the pan up when you install it and start your bolts all around, remove the studs and install the bolts....don't forget the oil pump !

[d.j. moordigian]

Tube,

IF your car is early to late mid 1928, the engine bolts to the front crossmember, I
think it's a pain to pull with the trans. In my youth, it was easier to pull the rear end,
then the box, then the engine, because of the front crossmember.

Dudley

[Model A Man]

I just did my mains and rods today with the motor in the car. I used a 3/8 drive with a short 3/4 socket and put a pipe on the breaker bar and was able to remove them. all my babbit was good except the center main babbit has some problems. I put it back together after adjusting the shims and will just drive it untill it lets go or I find another motor to install.

[James Rogers]

You guys make such a simple job sound so tough. I took a 22 MM combination wrench (cheap) and welded a 3/4 socket into it and it will drop any rear main ever put in a Model A. When I put it back I tighten it as close as I can figure to correct then line up the cotter and it is done. I don't find the pan any harder in the car than I do on a stand. I guess I just have done so many it doesn't matter anymore.

[MrTube]

James, perhaps I do make a big deal out of something simple to you but I'm willing to bet I can give you a run for your money in anything electronic.

I'm used to using an oscilloscope and a soldering iron to repair stuff not sockets and wrenches. I'm doing my best and thats all I have.

[James Rogers]

Originally Posted by MrTube

James, perhaps I do make a big deal out of something simple to you but I'm willing to bet I can give you a run for your money in anything electronic.

I'm used to using an oscilloscope and a soldering iron to repair stuff not sockets and wrenches. I'm doing my best and thats all I have.

You could be very surprised. I didn't mean any disrespect , I just think sometimes people try to re-invent the wheel.

That said, if you can bear with me for a couple of hours, I will post a picture of my wrench. It is also still usable as a socket on a ratchet, it just has a long tail.

[Kurt in NJ]

I have an old "special tool" it is 1 piece though, one end is a socket with a hex, the other is a socket with a square, the hex socket end is just as James describes his tool, it is long enough that the 30s mechanic that got it "good and tight" would have the proper torque.

These old time special tools are usually cheap --in the dollar, or free box because they don't look like normal tools.

Most special tools in the aftermarket started with a mechanics idea, a tool he homebuilt that was found to work better than factory tools, James idea of a box wrench welded to a socket is a good simple way to make a useful tool.

[MrTube]

Originally Posted by James Rogers

You could be very surprised. I didn't mean any disrespect , I just think sometimes people try to re-invent the wheel.

That said, if you can bear with me for a couple of hours, I will post a picture of my wrench. It is also still usable as a socket on a ratchet, it just has a long tail.

I was pretty sure you din't mean any disrespect. I think what bothers me is the fact you're right .

[James Rogers]

The tool. Sorry, the wrench is a 25 MM.

[thepolecat]

now I know I am jumping in late here, but I am about to do this fix and that is a great new tool to add to my special tool section there James! Thanks!

[700rpm]

Rent a cherry picker to pull the engine. They come apart so they'll fit in most cars if the back seat folds down and you don't tell your wife. Cheap and easy.