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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2024
Location: Northwest CT
Posts: 225
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I’m finishing up a windshield header and visor replacement on a previously molested ‘30 coupe. I almost have it ready for paint but I have major concerns about installing the visor trim molding afterward. The idea of hammering the ends of the molding closed scares me because there’s really no support behind the sides of the visor where it tucks behind the drip rails. I’m afraid of bending or cracking something in those two spots in the process. This car has a steel insert in the roof anyhow that the top decking will be glued to so original appearance isn’t the highest priority. In this case, am I better off just using regular hidem and end caps instead of the aluminum molding? If I do use the molding, is it supposed to be left raw aluminum or painted black?
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: N.E. Texas
Posts: 154
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I personally used hidem with end caps. I ordered the aluminum trim but did not want to have to paint the trim upper car color, since I already had the car painted when I put on a n original style top. Just what I did, and I think it looks awesome. To each his own.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,370
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Isn't a header behind that sheetmetal?
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2024
Location: Northwest CT
Posts: 225
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The replacement header wood was either not of the correct dimensions or the existing roof sheet metal was not in the right place, which is probably more likely. It took a lot of sanding and shaping of the curves on either side to get it to fit. There is about 1/2” of space on both sides between the end of the header and the sides of the visor/drip rail. I’m assuming that originally the wood would have been longer. The rest of the visor is obviously sitting on the header where it is nailed, it’s just the very ends that have no support.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Hebron, CT
Posts: 537
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I completely finished installing my top on my coupe including the perimeter moulding prior to sand blasting and final painting of the body. I carefuly masked the top with 2 layers of heavy gauge plastic sheet and tape. The body was epoxy primed immediately after sand blasting and then finished painted. I was very pleased with the end results.
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,370
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2024
Location: Northwest CT
Posts: 225
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I’ve decided to put the top decking and visor trim on before paint just in case something goes south. Worst case I can go to plan B and put regular hidem on it after paint. I definitely could have put a shim in on the ends of the header had I thought of that before the visor was nailed on. Oops. My only real option at this point is to use a tiny sheet metal screw rather than a nail at the very ends of the molding. Not quite right, but it’ll be better than a lot of other parts of this car anyhow. It’s not a perfect show car by any means.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Land of Lincoln
Posts: 3,430
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I would think about filling the cavity with a wood filler, one that would hold nails or screws
__________________
Don't force it with a little hammer tap, tap, tap get a bigger hammer tap done |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2024
Location: Northwest CT
Posts: 225
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I was able to get the visor trim installed without any issue. Turns out that I didn’t really need to put any nails in the very ends where there was no wood anyhow. I didn’t want to risk damaging anything by trying to fully close the ends of the trim so there’s still a thin gap that I’ll need to seal before paint but that’s the least of my worries.
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