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#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: florida
Posts: 18
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I put new shoes on the front, new drums, new bearings. I was unable to adjust the drivers side. I ordered new adjustment wedge & brake adjustment shafts thinking many years of wear. With the wedge adjustment all the way out I had to hammer the drum on. Not crazy but just to get it on. Even with the wheel on I can’t turn it. What am I missing?
Paul |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Land of Lincoln
Posts: 3,431
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Compare the old brake adjusting shafts to the new ones, carefully, I ended up using the old shafts.
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Don't force it with a little hammer tap, tap, tap get a bigger hammer tap done |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 9,360
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Were the drums turned after mounting to the hubs? Were the brakes shoes ground to fit the drums?
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 5,873
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Shorten the new brake adjustment shafts by 1 mm. Keep the same angle and shape.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#5 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: florida
Posts: 18
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Drum, shoes fit perfectly. I just couldn’t get them to adjust. The break adjustment shaft and wedge were the only things I changed. I did use American made. It’s got to be something simple.
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 5,873
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. Last edited by nkaminar; 07-13-2025 at 04:21 PM. |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 5,873
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One other thing to check is the proper angle on the brake arm. It should be 15 degrees forward with all slack taken up so that any more movement will cause the shoes to expand. Check it with the brake rod unattached. Adjust with the pills (shims) under the rod that goes through the king pin. After the arm angle is set, adjust the brake rod so that it attaches with no movement in the arm.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 243
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Have you checked the shoes for concentricity. Very important.
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,251
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I have to ask...are you sure the adjusting shafts are on the right way? The long side faces outward, the short side inward so that the beveled end sits flush against the conical adjusting wedge.
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Huntington, NY
Posts: 352
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Many folks don't realize that turning the adjusting wedge all the way out until it stops does not guarantee that the adjusting shafts are resting on a low spot on the wedge. my rule of thumb is to turn the adjusting wedge all the way out until it stops and turn it slightly back in until you hear it "click" (once or twice) , indicating that both shafts have "fallen" into the low spot on the wedge. It's amazing how far the shoes can spread if the shafts are resting on the high spots of the wedge.
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