Timing Wrench

[Gene F]

I have been going nuts trying to figure out a sound in my A; 1st gear ~14MPH, 2nd gear ~24 MPH, and in high gear at various speeds. The usual chasing ones tail. Then I was playing around with the timing lever, and it seemed to impact the sound somewhat. I thought why not check the simple stuff, so I decided to re-time the car. I noticed that the rotor going CCW was almost completely passed #1 contact point. I got out Les Andrews' book. I set the timing to where the leading corner was just adjacent to the distributor contact. Put it all back together and the sound is gone.

I seem to recall I bought a Nu-Rex wench, and set the timing using that. Are they defective, or did I do something wrong?

FYI: 6.5 head. IB-330 cam. Plugs sure are firing nice.

[Gary WA]

Wrench is good for a wrench but for timing not so good!

[alexiskai]

The Nu-Rex wrenches may produce an incorrect setting if the distributor has been modified to use the V8 points. The V8 points sit in a slightly different spot along the cam than the stock points and the wrench doesn't account for that.

[Richard Knight]

You were over advanced for sure. The motor was telling you.

[mcgarrett]

Originally Posted by alexiskai

The Nu-Rex wrenches may produce an incorrect setting if the distributor has been modified to use the V8 points. The V8 points sit in a slightly different spot along the cam than the stock points and the wrench doesn't account for that.

I noticed the same result when using the wrench with "modern" points in the Model A distributor. The wrench works perfectly when using the stock points.

[Brian SATX]

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There was a batch of them that were made incorrectly.

[nkaminar]

In my opinion, the only safe and correct way to set the ignition timing is to set the cam so that the points are just opening at TDC at #1 by using your eyeballs or an ohm meter or trouble light. The Nu-Rex wrench can be used as a wrench.

Also, the only correct way to use the ignition advance lever is to set it to the knee for different conditions. The knee is where additional advance will not increase the engine speed or output. The initial knee can be found at a fast idle, 1,200 rpm with the engine in neutral. The ignition advance should be adjusted for different conditions such as going up a long steep grade. This works for the stock head or a high compression head.

[chap52]

What nkamina said... That lever is there for a reason, don't ignore it. It took me a while to realize that my car was overheating because I rarely adjusted the timing for changes in driving conditions. "Listen" for that knee that nkaminar mentioned.
Something that I learned was that these cars love to be pampered and adjusted for best performance, not just driven. Chap

[katy]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

In my opinion, the only safe and correct way to set the ignition timing is to set the cam so that the points are just opening at TDC at #1 by using your eyeballs or an ohm meter or trouble light.

Ditto, the Ford way, "it's in the book"

[CarlG]

Only once did I have to set the timing on the roadside, and the NuRex wrench came to the rescue. This was on a friend's car.

[Russell Reay]

Originally Posted by alexiskai

The Nu-Rex wrenches may produce an incorrect setting if the distributor has been modified to use the V8 points. The V8 points sit in a slightly different spot along the cam than the stock points and the wrench doesn't account for that.

That is likely the cause of my recent several-day battle with timing. The procedure for using the wrench is so easy it would be a great service to the hobby if someone would determine how to modify the wrench or determine a different refence point so it could be used accurately with modern points.

[nkaminar]

Russell, Each engine is slightly different. So there is no correct position for the wrench that applies to all cars.

Once you set the timing it should not change unless you install a different distributor or change points or make other changes to the engine that would effect it. The timing will change if the points gap changes, so that is a maintenance item.

[jb-ob]

Modern point plate isn't the only issue, as the forged upper plate (1928) has the original points in a different location. The Nu-Rex tool does not accommodate this different either.

Fine idea but be aware of it's limitations.

[gdmn852]

Hello, I think there’s a few older posts about the repro points not aligned with the plate , so the modified the plate to align the incorrect points. Another variable to consider. Timing does vary between engines, so have to be set accordingly,some cars had an octane selector on distributor to adjust for best performance.

[woofa.express]

I set my ute timing with the wrench and on starting with the timing lever set up at fully retard the engine kicked back. I had several attempts at retiming and it never changed so I simply retarded by guess. That improved it substancially.

[AKJurnee]

I think people overthink this timing thing.

When its timed correctly, TDC on #1. There’s enough slop in the cam that if you rotate the cam by fingers (counter-clockwise) the cam shout open immediately.

[nkaminar]

The cam turns in the counter clockwise direction. There is always some slop in the connecting parts so the cam can be turned slightly without the engine turning. Turning it clockwise takes all the slop out. If the car is timed correctly a slight turn counterclockwise will then open the points. An ohmmeter or trouble light or just by looking can tell when the points open.

Before timing an engine, adjust the points. Besides the dwell being wrong, if the gap is too small the timing will be retarded and if too large the timing will be advanced. So, once you have the timing correct you only need to check the points gap now and then. Unless you install a different distributor or different design points.

[ModelA29]

Originally Posted by Russell Reay

...... it would be a great service to the hobby if someone would determine how to modify the wrench or determine a different refence point so it could be used accurately with modern points.

Not all modern point plates were created equal.
Set your timing the old fashioned way. Pop the wrench on and add a reference mark to the wrench or cap where it's at. Now it's 100% correct for that car.

[Fred K OR]

I have used the wrench to get close. But you need to do a little "adjusting" after. You can listen to the engine and adjust as needed.

[katy]

Originally Posted by Fred K OR

I have used the wrench to get close. But you need to do a little "adjusting" after. You can listen to the engine and adjust as needed.

If one does it the Ford way, no further adjustments required. (KISS)