26 T radiator leak

[KCW]

My 26 T just started with a radiator leak. I can’t seem to locate where it’s coming from. I let the car idle in the driveway for 20 minutes and it didn’t leak. Then I took it around the block and the leak started again. The level of fluid is not near the baffle. It doesn’t seem to be leaking from where the hose connects the engine to the radiator. It seems to drip from the center front suspension, but I think this is just the lowest point where it collects. For the life of me I can’t seem to find where it’s coming from.

Can anyone suggest some places where can check? I’m very much an amateur at this stuff. Thank you so much in advance!

[rotorwrench]

They leave a visible trail over time but it takes a while. The smaller the hole the harder it is to find. A pressure test will find it quicker.

[A bones]

My T showed a lot of material loss at the bottom outlet. Corrosion over the years has eaten away at the cast iron.
Have you checked the fitting?
I used some E-poxy and made sure to place the clamp as close to the radiator ss possible.
I bought a new out let but my go to radiator specialist declined to do it.
Haven't had trouble since

[KCW]

How do a do a pressure test?

[rotorwrench]

A pressure test takes equipment to cover the ports and apply a very light pressure to the radiator though a modified cap wit the use of a soapy water solution to find the bubbles. The problem is that the model T was a non pressure system and very old non pressure radiators can easily be damaged by application of much more then 3 PSI. It can be risky and a hand pump is safer that using a compressed air source.

A good visual inspection can be done but it may require removal of the radiator which is a job in and of itself. Steel or cast iron fittings will rust near a leak. Brass will tarnish and copper will turn green.

Model Ts tend to expand coolant out the vent tube any time the temperature get high enough so it's not uncommon for them to barf some coolant out in high temp weather. A leak down low will slowly drain the radiator but a leak up high such as near the filler cap or upper hose will just find a lower coolant level due to the constant leak. A leak in the tubes or tanks will discolor the paint near the leak so they are usually visible under close inspection. Finding a shop to do copper/brass radiator work in getting to be difficult in this day and age. Too many throw away disposable radiators.

[mercman from oz]

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[KCW]

How topped off should the radiator be? The leak didn’t seem to be coming from the overflow drain, however, I drove it for about 10 minutes the other day and there was no leak. Below is a photo of the level of the radiator fluid. Does this level of fullness seem appropriate? How topped off should it be? This problem is driving me nuts,

[rotorwrench]

They tend to adjust their own level. If you can see fluid in the tank then it should function OK. If there are problems such as a head gasket leak or blockage then it can still overheat but its a drive and watch it situation.

[KCW]

Good to know. I guess I’ll just keep driving and monitoring for leaks. Hopefully there is no leak and I just overfilled! Fingers crossed! Thank you everyone!

[A bones]

When driving mine, I always keep 2 quart can of water with me I can expect, at some point it will burp out a little water. So I just stop and add a bit.