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#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2024
Location: East Wenatchee, WA
Posts: 15
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I’d appreciate thoughts on what I’m dealing with and the best way to proceed. I purchased a 1933 Model B pickup (Model 46 engine) from a friend whose Dad restored the vehicle in the 1990s. He was a pretty accomplished mechanic, having restored several early Fords and he also built and raced cars. The truck was used regularly until Dad passed away about 12 years ago. I’ve been going through various aspects of the truck. I took the head off to address a possible failed head gasket. Then took off the water pump to have the head cleaned/resurfaced. I noticed signs of a leak from the packing nut on the water pump and decided to investigate. Saw a couple Youtube videos that made it look pretty easy to pop the fan loose and slide out the shaft. Should have left well enough alone. I broke the threaded end of the shaft pounding on it (I did have a nut on it). Had a heck of a time getting the fan loose after that, but finally did get it off with some heat. The shaft did not slide out, because there is a sealed bearing in the front of the pump and there were two retaining clips that clipped into grooves that had been machined into the shaft to hold the shaft in place. I got those off after about an hour of profanity and was able to tap the shaft loose from the front bearing and what appears to be some kind of bushing at the back of the pump. The greaseway under the zirc fitting for the front bearing is plugged with silicone, which appears to be a deliberate seal since there is a sealed bearing there. At the rear bushing, there is silicone around the base of that bushing where it meets the housing, so I’m not sure what that indicates. I did some pretty good banging on the shaft to get the fan off and then while trying to get the shaft out of the pump housing before I realized there were tiny retaining clips on the shaft. The front bearing seems okay despite the abuse, but it does move back and forth about a quarter inch in the housing. So my first questions are, has anyone seen a similar sealed bearing (if that’s what it is) in the front of the housing and should I consider leaving it be as an improvement over a rebuild kit bearing (with old style bearing)? Is the bushing setup at the back of the housing a custom setup? I’ve ordered a rebuild kit from Dave Renner and my preference is to use those parts to rebuild the pump. But, I’m a little concerned that there is something else “custom” about the rear bushing and if I press that out, I’m going to find a modification to the housing that will not be compatible with a new leakless bearing.
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,369
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Are you going to cut the grooves in the new shaft to use the retaining clips? The rear bushing you have has a seal that should be replaced for leakless operation.You might find it easier to just get a new leakless one.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 10,135
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DFWI - Send it to "Skip"!...
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 697
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Now wait a minute! DFWI? Just a couple weeks ago someone was complaining about these cryptic whatever-you-call-thems.
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#5 |
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2024
Location: East Wenatchee, WA
Posts: 15
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I understand, Pete. "Don't [screw] with it" I've heard about Skip the pump guru. At this point, I'm looking for a decent casting that I can rebuild with parts from Dave Renner. He graciously spent time with me on the phone today, looking at pictures and thinking through options. What a great guy. He had to cut 20 acres of hay before sundown and he spent about a half hour with me on the phone. Already, I can see that these 33 model B "short" pumps are hard to find. Then, I may see what I can do to repair this pump as a backup.
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 11,626
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 9,356
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Maybe Don't F--- With It
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: southeastern Michigan
Posts: 10,597
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Try Southside Obsolete and Third Gen Auto for a NOS pump.
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 7,302
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Remember that the '32 pump is longer than the '33. Look at distance between grease fittings.
Charlie Stephens Last edited by Charlie Stephens; 07-24-2025 at 12:34 AM. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 10,135
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 4,804
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Pavilla
I have 6 33/34 short pumps IF you need one, just shoot me a PM. ALSO looking now BUT there was bare housing on Ebay for months a guy had which I am looking for that post IF its still there for you as well. |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,369
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If your casting is not cracked you should be able to rebuild it with original parts.
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