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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mansfield, Ohio
Posts: 593
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I have a 52 Ford 2dr sedan with the v8 flat head. When I start the car and give it the gas after warming up it misses and sometimes puffs out the exhaust. But idling it purrs like a kitten. When driving there is no miss or backfiring. Any ideas what I should do. Thanks....
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#2 |
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 11,633
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It's times like this when a good understanding of the principles of carburetion are helpful. A carburetor like the one on your Ford has 3 primary "systems" that allow it to operate as it should. They are the "idle" system, the "main" system, and the "power enrichment" system. The first two are designed to operate in a steady state, basically allowing the engine to run at a steady low speed (idle), or a higher speed (driving). The "power enrichment" system is designed to allow a smooth transition between the two.
On a Ford 94 series carburetor (which you should have on a '52 Ford V8), it consists of two components, the accelerator pump and the vacuum operated power valve. The accelerator pump responds to the depression on the throttle by introducing a healthy stream of gasoline into the throttle bores when a major transition is required. The power valve works more subtly by allowing the introduction of a lesser amount if fuel into the engine determined by a drop in internal vacuum rather than a physical throttle stroke. If you have stayed with me this far, you should already have a good idea of what parts in your carburetor you should be looking at. I'll give you another hint, the problem usually does not usually lay with the accelerator pump, as it is a simple, mechanical device that usually functions fine unless it is damaged. The power valve, on the other hand, is a relatively delicate vacuum acuted unit that is prone to leakage, internal failure, and blowouts due to backfires. The accelerator pump is usually easier to detect, because all it takes is to actuate the throttle linkage and look down the carb to see if there is a healthy squirt of fuel. The power valve is more difficult to detect, and sometimes requires you to suck on it. |
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#3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mansfield, Ohio
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Thanks, tubman for the info. I'm going to have to get on you tube or somewhere as these
carbs are so new to me that I'm not even sure where the power valve is at in the carb. I've had this car for about a week and a half now. I'll keep your post until I understand everything. Thanks again..... |
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#4 |
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Location: Mansfield, Ohio
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IMG_20250605_180727207.jpg
tubman do I have a 94 N series carb. Can you tell by my picture. Is it hard to change out the power valve to a new one. |
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#5 | |
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Join Date: May 2015
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#6 |
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
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Changing out a power valve is not difficult but it may be a little tricky. Beware of inferior replacement parts, and make sure the replacement power valve does not leak. Also, Holley power valves for their 4 BBL carbs are almost identical to those for the 2 BBLs and will even screw into the carburetor body, but will then assuredly leak. The best solution for this is to obtain your spare parts from reputable dealer who can supply adequate support. I use Daytona Parts, but any of the guys on here (Mac's, Third Gen) are also fine. |
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#7 |
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: ohio
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I'm with tubman here.He is VERY SHARP on these matters. But I'm wondering, is the car is equipped with automatic trans. ? I think that style of carburetor was used with Ford-o-matic, ????
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#8 |
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
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"Tom C" - There should be a cast number on the side of the middle main body of your carburetor. I believe for a 1952 Ford, it should say "EAB". But Mike is right, my knowledge kinda disappears with later model cars and automatic transmissions.
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#9 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mansfield, Ohio
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I'll try to find a number. This is not a Fordamatic. It has 3 speed on the tree.
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#10 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
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![]() I should have mentioned; replacing the power valve requires the carburetor to be completely disassembled, which will require a new rebuild kit to be purchased. Last edited by tubman; 06-06-2025 at 09:30 PM. |
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#11 |
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Location: Yucaipa, CA
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With the engine not running and the air cleaner removed look down the carb and operate the linkage to see if the accelerator pump is squirting fuel. No squirt and you will have big hesitation between the idle circuit and when and the carbs switching to the next circuit. The engine momentarily runs out of gas. The engine will idle fine and drive fine but right in-between the two circuits it will fall on its face without that extra squirt of fuel.
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#12 |
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: ohio
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Maybe this is a good time to think about Charlie for a rebuild.
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#13 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mansfield, Ohio
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Flathead, if that is the case does that mean the Power Valve is bad?
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#14 |
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As before, looking for and not seeing the squirt is a sign the accelerator pump is bad; there is no visual indication of a bad power valve. Replacement of the accelerator pump also requires almost a complete assembly of the carburetor as well, so you might as well plan on a complete rebuild.
Now that "Charlie's" name has been brought up, I'll explain who he is. Charlie Schwedler is a man in New York who specializes in rebuilding these old Ford engine accessories (carburetors, fuel pumps, distributors, etc.). He does them all and he does them well. He is a private citizen who works out of his own shop and has an impeccable reputation for quality of work, fairness of price, and reasonable turnaround times. He is also the "go to guy" here when someone has a seemingly insoluble problem. He has a test engine that he runs all repaired components on to make absolutely sure they are 100% correct. I haven't mentioned him here, as the O/P seems to have a rather straightforward problem and seems to have the desire to be able to learn how to do this stuff himself rather than just pay someone. Also, since the O/P appears to have the wrong carburetor on his car, he may decide to get another, proper core to rebuild. That are not that hard to find, and would probably be the right thing to do. This is another area where Charlie Schwendler could be of assistance as i am sure he has a large stock of core carburetors. Generic reproductions are also available on eBay and other such sources for around $100. These are always marginal deals, but in all cases, inferior to a properly rebuilt original Ford unit. |
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#15 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mansfield, Ohio
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[attach]2025-06-06 17.12.19.jpg
2025-06-06 17.06.02.jpg[/attach] Thank you, guys. So, I definitely have the wrong carburetor? Would it hurt anything to get this one rebuilt and use it? Other than being the wrong carb. It does say Ford on it and USA and then a large H on it that I guess it means Holley. I watched a video that Charlie Price made, and you can tell he is an expert. Thanks.... |
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#16 | |
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Join Date: May 2015
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#17 |
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
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It won't hurt at all to have it rebuilt and use it. Actually, since it is a later model and has some "improvements", it might just work a little better. The only thing it might need is a jet change.
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#18 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mansfield, Ohio
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Thanks, Tubman for all your help. I really like your car. Pete, thanks for the larger pictures as I can actually see what I have. Thanks to everyone else that pitched in. Hopefully I'll learn something about these cars now.
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#19 | |
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#20 |
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Thank you I got mixed up on names.
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