The Ford Barn

pawillie · 05-19-2025, 08:29 PM

Dropped the pan on my 29 Tudor to adjust the mains and to my surprise one of the bolts on the center cap appears to have been stripped. It is tight enough to require a heavy wrench to turn either way put will not torque and too tight to take out. Cap is tight but could be the cause of eating up my timing gears. Do I drill it out?

Kurt in NJ · 05-19-2025, 08:36 PM

drill the sides of the nut and split it with a chisel
possibly using impact and spinning it out

pawillie · 05-20-2025, 08:47 AM

Only the rear main has the nuts, the center and front have square headed bolts. One of the bolts appears to be stripped. Turns very tight both ways but won't torque or spin out.

Will N · 05-20-2025, 09:29 AM

I'm pretty sure the center caps have castellated nuts too. The driver's side is behind the water inlet. The passenger side is within the valve chamber. You have to take the valve cover off to access it.

Richard Knight · 05-20-2025, 09:30 AM

Sharpen a chisel to a knife edge and split the nut. Good luck.

pawillie · 05-20-2025, 01:00 PM

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I was making reference to the center crank main which is mounted with square headed bolts.

Benson · 05-20-2025, 01:40 PM

Yes square head bolts at crankshaft end BUT castellated nuts with cotter pins at upper end as mentioned by Will N in post #4.

With cotter pins still in place and no wrench on the upper NUTS, square bolts will turn very hard in both directions.

Same same with mainbearing #1.

Main # 3 is same same setup only upper bolts are "captive" so they do not turn. The BOLT can be removed, once nuts are removed if flywheel housing is removed.

If flywheel housing is installed, the bolts can only be pushed up 1/2 to 3/4 inch then the bolts will be blocked by the flywheel housing.

Kurt in NJ · 05-20-2025, 03:49 PM

There is supposed to be a little nub on one of the corners of the square end that indicates the direction of cotter pin hole at the threaded end .

Bill Cilker · 05-20-2025, 04:46 PM

The passenger side (right) center main bolt nut is in the valve chamber and you need to remove the valve cover and the distributor drive to get to it.

pawillie · 05-20-2025, 04:54 PM

Oh my, I'm new at this set-up and had no idea there were nuts at end of bolts. Makes sense for threads in cast block most likely would stand the 80lb torque. Now to find the nuts. You helped me with the one in valve chamber, how about the others?

Flathead · 05-20-2025, 05:05 PM

The nuts should be removed from the bolts, the bolts fit snugly in the block to keep the cap properly aligned with the block. Nut for center main is behind the valve chamber cover, remove cotter pin and wrench the nut off of the main bolt. Other bolt for center main is between the center cylinders below water elbow.

pawillie · 05-20-2025, 05:49 PM

Thanks much, problem solved.

katy · 05-21-2025, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawillie

Oh my, I'm new at this set-up and had no idea there were nuts at end of bolts. Makes sense for threads in cast block most likely would stand the 80lb torque. Now to find the nuts. You helped me with the one in valve chamber, how about the others?

See post #4

Will N · 05-21-2025, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

There is supposed to be a little nub on one of the corners of the square end that indicates the direction of cotter pin hole at the threaded end .

I never knew that!

Joe K · 05-22-2025, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Will N

I never knew that!

I remember seeing the "nubs" but didn't connect it with the orientation of the cotter pin hole.

I assumed someone got sloppy with a hammer?

The day I can say I know EVERYTHING about the Model A has not arrived yet!

Joe K

stevests · 05-22-2025, 10:09 AM

Those "nubs" were a carry-over from the Model T.

05-19-2025, 08:36 PM	#2
Kurt in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: on the Littlefield Posts: 6,556	Re: Main crank bearing drill the sides of the nut and split it with a chisel possibly using impact and spinning it out

05-20-2025, 08:47 AM	#3
pawillie Member Join Date: May 2016 Posts: 41	Re: Main crank bearing Only the rear main has the nuts, the center and front have square headed bolts. One of the bolts appears to be stripped. Turns very tight both ways but won't torque or spin out.

05-20-2025, 09:30 AM	#5
Richard Knight Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2021 Posts: 243	Re: Main crank bearing Sharpen a chisel to a knife edge and split the nut. Good luck.

05-20-2025, 01:00 PM	#6
pawillie Member Join Date: May 2016 Posts: 41	Re: Main crank bearing Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I was making reference to the center crank main which is mounted with square headed bolts.

05-20-2025, 01:40 PM	#7
Benson Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Cen~Col - Central Highlands Posts: 2,757	Re: Main crank bearing Yes square head bolts at crankshaft end BUT castellated nuts with cotter pins at upper end as mentioned by Will N in post #4. With cotter pins still in place and no wrench on the upper NUTS, square bolts will turn very hard in both directions. Same same with mainbearing #1. Main # 3 is same same setup only upper bolts are "captive" so they do not turn. The BOLT can be removed, once nuts are removed if flywheel housing is removed. If flywheel housing is installed, the bolts can only be pushed up 1/2 to 3/4 inch then the bolts will be blocked by the flywheel housing. Last edited by Benson; 05-23-2025 at 02:31 AM. Reason: Blue text is additional information

05-19-2025, 08:29 PM	#1
pawillie Member Join Date: May 2016 Posts: 41	Main crank bearing Dropped the pan on my 29 Tudor to adjust the mains and to my surprise one of the bolts on the center cap appears to have been stripped. It is tight enough to require a heavy wrench to turn either way put will not torque and too tight to take out. Cap is tight but could be the cause of eating up my timing gears. Do I drill it out?

05-20-2025, 09:29 AM	#4
Will N Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 1,251	Re: Main crank bearing I'm pretty sure the center caps have castellated nuts too. The driver's side is behind the water inlet. The passenger side is within the valve chamber. You have to take the valve cover off to access it.

05-20-2025, 03:49 PM	#8
Kurt in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: on the Littlefield Posts: 6,556	Re: Main crank bearing There is supposed to be a little nub on one of the corners of the square end that indicates the direction of cotter pin hole at the threaded end .

05-20-2025, 04:46 PM	#9
Bill Cilker Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Milpitas, CA Posts: 453	Re: Main crank bearing The passenger side (right) center main bolt nut is in the valve chamber and you need to remove the valve cover and the distributor drive to get to it. __________________ Bill Cilker, Jr Unrestored 190A Victoria 45B, & 160B Victoria Association President

05-20-2025, 04:54 PM	#10
pawillie Member Join Date: May 2016 Posts: 41	Re: Main crank bearing Oh my, I'm new at this set-up and had no idea there were nuts at end of bolts. Makes sense for threads in cast block most likely would stand the 80lb torque. Now to find the nuts. You helped me with the one in valve chamber, how about the others?

05-20-2025, 05:05 PM	#11
Flathead Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern Maine Posts: 1,617	Re: Main crank bearing The nuts should be removed from the bolts, the bolts fit snugly in the block to keep the cap properly aligned with the block. Nut for center main is behind the valve chamber cover, remove cotter pin and wrench the nut off of the main bolt. Other bolt for center main is between the center cylinders below water elbow.

05-20-2025, 05:49 PM	#12
pawillie Member Join Date: May 2016 Posts: 41	Re: Main crank bearing Thanks much, problem solved.

05-22-2025, 10:09 AM	#16
stevests Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Longbranch, Washington Posts: 631	Re: Main crank bearing Those "nubs" were a carry-over from the Model T.