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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 309
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Alright engine builders, got a good one for you. so I'm doing a complete rebuild on a 31 blockthat has been sitting for about 50 years in the mud. the block is in good shape other than one small bugaboo. the tubes that let oil drain into the main bearings, particularly the rear main are rusted through. i need to replace them to get the motor ready to go to the machine shop to be sleeved, decked and new valve seats installed. has anyone replaced the oiling tubes before? i know they are not exactly in every parts store. they look suspiciously like standard steel tubing but i want to be sure before i start pulling them out
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 4,251
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I have never done this on a Model A, but on a Model B I have used a section of a push rod, and it worked just fine. I don't remember if I had to enlarge the holes in the lock or not. Hope this helps?
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#3 |
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Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 243
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I have seen crushed lines, lines cut off, mostly by folks who thought that would be a way to cut down on oil leaking out the rear main? I would use brass thin wall tubing from the hobby store. K&S I believe is the brand. Just find the size that fits inside what is left of the steel tube. Works good, lasts a long time!
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: 34.22 N 118.36 W
Posts: 1,181
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If you are not pressurizing the mains just about anything will work
I think it would be possible to ream the hole in the valve chamber side a little larger to facilitate pushing the tube into the bearing side Then take a taper punch or ball bearing to flare the chamber side I have removed them to pressurize in the past be tapping the bearing end and using a flare fitting with copper tube soldered in J
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 309
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the rear main oil tube is the biggest mystery, it looks like it was blown open like a pipe bomb. I'm staying 100% stock and just want to replace the tubes. i had the idea of taking a tap, threading the worn tubes and using a small slide hammer to pull them out.
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"Ain't but three thangs in this world worth a solitary dime, but A Models, Sweet Tea, and Macaroni Pie!" |
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#6 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Posts: 11,972
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Quote:
Pipe Bomb .....Likely it was compressed air shot down the tube from the valve galley and the crankshaft clearances were 'plugging' the other end. The sudden blast of high pressure has gotta go somewhere. |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 309
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Definitely plausible theory. i got another engine to pour babbitt in tomorrow but i'll clean up the area on the rear main and take a photo of the tube in question. Looks like i'll be buying some piping to replace it. i presume 3/8 od steel tubing?
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"Ain't but three thangs in this world worth a solitary dime, but A Models, Sweet Tea, and Macaroni Pie!" |
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#8 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 1,808
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That rear tube is available from Brattons, isn't it suitable?
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#9 |
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Join Date: Aug 2024
Location: Motueka New Zealand
Posts: 49
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I need to replace three in my "B" motor.I am not seeing how they would be inserted ? do they go through the main bearing journal before the insert bearing is placed ? What do Brattons call them ?
Last edited by headonz; 05-08-2025 at 04:49 AM. |
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#10 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: VA
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#11 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2024
Location: Motueka New Zealand
Posts: 49
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![]() I am not sure if we are all talking about the same thing. I thought the OP was referring to the tube (s) in the B motor case , that feed the mains bearings from the oil gallery ,under light pressure . Not the tube that returns oil to the pan at rear of crank. |
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#12 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: VA
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I should have read the original post carefully!
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#13 |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Land of Lincoln
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Don’t feel bad Bruce , I’am wondering also , it be nice to see some photos , maybe not possible ?
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Don't force it with a little hammer tap, tap, tap get a bigger hammer tap done |
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#14 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: 40 Mt.Vickery Rd. Southborough,MA 508-460-0733
Posts: 370
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![]() Quote:
Steel tubing. www.jandm-machine.com |
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 309
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Alrighty y'all, got a photo taken, sorry about the wait but i had an engine to babbitt and line bore first. but here is the oil tube on the rear main that feeds it. i have no idea how it happened but for the record the motor still had the crank in it and all the internals when i got it.
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"Ain't but three thangs in this world worth a solitary dime, but A Models, Sweet Tea, and Macaroni Pie!" |
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#16 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Santee Calif.
Posts: 638
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Thats odd, almost looks like something got between the crank and the tube during it's rotation and cut or wore the tube away.
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 309
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It's a mystery to be sure, the crank doesn't appear to have any scars from something striking it but i'll double check. one thing concerning is the fact the rods have different size nuts on them and half of them had no cotter keys. the threads are good but maybe something worked loose and detonated the line.
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"Ain't but three thangs in this world worth a solitary dime, but A Models, Sweet Tea, and Macaroni Pie!" |
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