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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Roanoke, VA USA
Posts: 2,091
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Is this a late 1931 stock carburetor configuration? Or is it a farmer fix?
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#2 |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Davenport, Iowa
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Yes, although the fuel inlet/filter bulb on the side should be straight up and down, not cocked at an angle. The fuel line looks a little wonky, though/
Marshall |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
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I concur with Marshall. In the latest issue of the Restorer Magazine, May/June 2025 issue, in the Technical Q&A section, page 4, there was a question about whether this "side bowl" needed a gasket. The carburetor was off a late 1931 car. If you take the side bowl off you will find a screen inside.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Roanoke, VA USA
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I’d like to order a fuel line for it. Is this the correct fuel line?
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...9356&cat=41707 ![]() Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Roanoke, VA USA
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The car wants to stall a lot when coming to a stop. Will the angle of the bulb affect that? Or is the problem likely the float?
I’m getting 10 MPG, and it’s running rich. I’m thinking the carburetor needs rebuilt. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Davenport, Iowa
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2. 10 MPG is unacceptable. I suspect a previous owner slapped in a carburetor "rebuild kit" from one of the vendors. These kits usually have incorrect jets sizes with improper flow rates that will affect gas mileage and performance. Before panicking, order a set of flow-tested jets from Renner's Corner and install them. They will for sure help your carb operate more efficiently. Order the special tool to help remove the longer jets. 3. No, the angle of the sediment bowl on the side of the carb will not affect mileage or performance, unless the filter is clogged or the fuel line is pinched, limiting fuel intake to the carb. Marshall |
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#7 |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Davenport, Iowa
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4. Yes, the float is most likely in need of adjustment if the engine stalls upon quick stops, either higher or lower. Experiment with the float height to match your engine's sweet spots.
Marshall |
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#8 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
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The side bowl on your carburetor is a sediment trap, and it is full of gas when the shutoff valve is open. Thus if you occasionally drain the sediment out, the side filter bowl has no effect on the engine's performance regardless of its angle.
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Bob Bidonde |
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#9 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Washington Cty., ME or Flagler Cty., FL
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Hello Shew01, you are lucky to have that 1931 side bowl carburetor used with the indented firewall. I am finishing a restoration on a late 31 Cabriolet and don't have this carburetor. I would like to have one but I don't want to pay up to $300-400 dollars to get it when I have several of the other Zenith designs! I do have a side bowl filter however and tried to mount it on the other style of Zenith carburetors and it won't fit. The side bowl filter casting interferes with the other style Zenith. Is this the reason why your side bowl filter is mounted in a tilted position?
I also note that you have an exhaust leak at the manifold connecction. Ed |
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#10 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
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Ed was very observant to notice the black carbon at the connection between the manifold and the exhaust pipe. Way to go ED.
There are a couple thing to do to try and fix the leak. One is to make sure the flange on the exhaust pipe is not bent. You can probably tell where it was leaking and maybe use a body hammer to make it correct. Another thing is to use a high temperature RTV gasket sealer. When you tighten the clamp, wiggle the exhaust pipe a little to make sure it is seated correctly against the exhaust manifold.
__________________
A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#11 | |
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Roanoke, VA USA
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Thanks, Marshall. I ordered jets from Renner’s. I didn’t know there was a special tool to remove the long jets. Are there any other oddities with this carburetor? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#12 | |
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Roanoke, VA USA
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Ed, carburetors are a weak spot for me. Where do you see the leak. I think I’ve heard a noise that could be a leak, but I’m not sure how to track it down. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#13 | |
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Location: Roanoke, VA USA
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Thanks Neal. I just saw your post. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#14 |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Davenport, Iowa
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In addition to nkaminar's advice, make sure when you re-install the clamp that you orient it correctly with the wider portion on the underneath side. Some of the poorer off-shore repo clamps from the 1970's and 1980's could fit either way, but didn't do a good job holding the muffler pipe and exhaust manifold together. Yours is o.k. with its wider lower portion present. Your clamp is oriented correctly in the first photo. Just make a mental note when you remove the clamp to tap the muffler's flange against the exhaust manifold's flange that you put the clamp back on as you see it now.
Once you have sealed up the muffler pipe to exhaust manifold, if you hear a ticking sound while the engine is running, there is also an exhaust manifold leak, usually emanating from the back exhaust port, #6 in line. As we all know from sad and expensive experience, that part of the manifold tends to droop from the heat of manifold and the weight of the muffler pulling down on it. This will create a gap in port #6 from which exhaust gases escape and cause the ticking sound as each cylinder fires. The only true cure is to replace the exhaust manifold with a NEW one from any of the vendors. Look for black splotches of carbon around the back of the exhaust manifold. That's a telltale sign that at the very least a gasket has blown out or at worst, the manifold is drooping. $$$$$$$ On the other hand, a whistling sound usually comes from a leaking intake manifold sucking in air. Learn to identify the Model A's many sounds when diagnosing problems and it'll make your life repairing these old beasts easier. ![]() Marshall |
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#15 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
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To add to what Marshall said, you can locate leaks with a small diameter tube. Hold one end up to your ear, not in the ear, and move the other around to locate the tell tail sound of leaks.
__________________
A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#16 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Gwynn's Island Va
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Shew, bring the carburetor to me at Luray. I'll bring my carburetor tools and put your jets in and set the float for you. I'll also have a couple of side bowl carburetors with me.
Wick |
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#17 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Hebron, CT
Posts: 537
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Your fuel line looks to be the correct one but needs some corrective rebending. If you carefully bend it back to resemble the shape of the one shown in Snyder's catalog it should allow resetting the side bowl to the correct vertical orientation.
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#18 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 9,358
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![]() Quote:
Page 560 of the Service Bulletins addresses installing a side bowl filter on a non side bowl carb, says to use two gaskets between side bowl and carb. |
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