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#1 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 392
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I cannot find the thrust clearance in my red book. I was measuring the flywheel runout and found if I turn the engine clockwise (from the rear) I get a different reading from turning it CCW. So I assume this difference would be the thrust clearance without taking the engine apart and measuring it. I get zero runout on the flywheel both directions just the difference when the crank is rotated a different direction. I get .018 difference between the two.
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Turning the engine in different directions will impart forces on the crank shaft in opposite directions due to he helical teeth on the cam drive gears and the oil pump/distributor drive. Probably, the cranks is moving back and forth on you. Tr doing it with the engine in a vertical orientation 9front down) so that the crank is always all the way forward.
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#3 |
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Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 243
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.004-.006
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#4 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
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Most likely the thrust clearance but it could be the orientation of the dial indicator and how it reacts to different directions in the flywheel movement. Try leveraging the crankshaft back and forth with a lever of some kind. You may be able to just push and pull the flywheel.
I don't know what the clearance should be but 0.018 sounds excessive. It is about 0.001 on my Burtz engine. You could pry the flywheel backwards by levering against the flywheel housing through the hole for the starter motor. And lever it forward by levering the front pulley against something on the engine.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. Last edited by nkaminar; 04-26-2025 at 10:43 AM. |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
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W/the dial indicator mounted as shown in the LH picture, you should be able to easily measure the thrust clearance by simply moving the crankshaft back and forth.
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#6 | |
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#7 |
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Yes, that is the clearance. I don't know what it should be for a Babbitt engine. Richard Knight in Post #3 indicated 0.004 to 0.006 but I suspect a lot of cars have the larger clearance you are getting.
How many miles on the engine since the last rebuild? Are there any other issues such as knocks or a noise when you have the clutch disengaged (clutch pedal to the floor)? Are you concerned about the trust clearance? I don't know what to do to reduce it. When you are at a stop sign or stop light put the car in neutral and take your foot off the clutch to minimize wear on the thrust bearing.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. Last edited by nkaminar; 04-28-2025 at 08:37 AM. |
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#8 |
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"Dykes", manual says thrust clearance of .003" - .007"
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#9 | |
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#10 |
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That's normal
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#11 |
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The 0.018 thrust clearance could contribute to the long pedal movement to disengage the clutch. There is a lot of mechanical advantage with the pedal movement which means that a little movement in the crankshaft will result in a large movement at the pedal.
I found a bronze part at Snyders that can act as a thrust bearing. See https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...8768&cat=41685
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#12 | |
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#13 |
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#14 |
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The .004-.006 Is what I used when re babbitting and align boring engines. Preferably .004. your .018 is not the end of the world. If the thrust Babbitt is not broken or falling out just use it. Will have no real affect on the clutch.
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#15 |
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Page: 1-136, at the bottom left
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