Turn signal problems

[MickyD]

Rewired back of my 31. We are getting brake lights and 3rd brake lights. We are getting 6.25 volts on everything but turn on turn signals and we get 1 volt and no turn signals.

[Badpuppy]

Bsd fuse? Wrong flasher?

[Ray64]

uditto flasher

[Gary WA]

Ground

[nkaminar]

This may help: https://cedarcreekas.org/TechTopics/...Collection.pdf

[Hitman]

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Originally Posted by MickyD

Rewired back of my 31. We are getting brake lights and 3rd brake lights. We are getting 6.25 volts on everything but turn on turn signals and we get 1 volt and no turn signals.

Obviously, Model A's didn't come with turn signals originally. So more details here would help. What brand do you have, how's it wired? Is it a 12 or 6 volt system? Did it work before you worked on the car?

Details!

[MickyD]

6 volt system. Flasher still good. I seem to think it is the ground but everything shows 6.5 volts until I go to the turn signal lights which show 1 volt. The turn signal lights are in my cowl lights

[rotorwrench]

The standard type signal stat switch uses a bi-metallic with an applied current heat in order to get the switch to close the contacts. When the element cools off, it opens the contacts and it repeats this as long as the signal control is selected to function mode. An open bulb element will stop the full function of the switch and some LED bulbs don't draw enough current to get the signal stat to function. An open circuit due to a bad wire or ground will kill function. A short circuit will blow the fuse as long as the system has a fuse.

They make electronic signal stats that will function with LEDs or resistors have to be added to the left or right circuit to get a standard type signal stat to function with LEDs.

Brake light switch involvement can also cause problems but a lot depends on if the car is using separate turn signal lamps or if it is using the tail lamps like a modern car.

[nkaminar]

"When the element cools off, it opens the contacts and it repeats this as long as the signal control is selected to function mode."

Shouldn't it be that when the element cools off it CLOSES the contacts?

[MickyD]

I bought a new flasher from snyders, turn signal kit and 6 volt led lights. hope this fixes the problem. will know in a few days.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

The standard type signal stat switch uses a bi-metallic with an applied current heat in order to get the switch to close the contacts. When the element cools off, it opens the contacts and it repeats this as long as the signal control is selected to function mode.
.

Originally Posted by nkaminar

"When the element cools off, it opens the contacts and it repeats this as long as the signal control is selected to function mode."

Shouldn't it be that when the element cools off it CLOSES the contacts?

Shouldn't it be when the BI-METAL element heats up it OPENS the contact and when it cools off it CLOSES the contacts, repeating to make the lights "Blink"? Contacts are normally closed when switch is off.

[rotorwrench]

[Quote]Shouldn't it be that when the element cools off it CLOSES the contacts.

It does have to have a circuit in order to apply heat. Too often I think about the way the King Seeley systems work and it makes my brain think backwards instead of forwards but there is always a way to set the direction right with the whole circuit in view. The key is that the lights come on with the switch closed but a bi-metalic can be made to open or close a switch depending on how it's made.

Here's a video link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rpVB49LOEPM&t=73s

A person can see that there is a bi-metalic side and a switch side. Ever wonder why the flasher speeds up if a bulb is inoperable?

[CarlG]

I wired my 3rd brake light directly off the brake light switch.

[oldspert]

Kind of on the same topic. How confident would I be to think the wire color/contacts would be the same between different manufacturers. I have an older switch with no name and no color code for the wires coming out of it.
Ed

[nkaminar]

Oldspert, The colors can be different. See the link in post #5.

[oldspert]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

Oldspert, The colors can be different. See the link in post #5.

The link in post #5 doesn't show the internal connections of the switch, only that they come out of the switch. If the colors are different, how do I ID the wires and what bulb do they go to? Hence the need to know if all switches are color coded the same.
Ed

[katy]

oldspert, what brand of switch do you have? Model #? Maybe some one on here w/the same make can help w/the colour code .
Here's a diagram for a "Signal Stat" controller"

[oldspert]

Originally Posted by katy

oldspert, what brand of switch do you have? Model #? Maybe some one on here w/the same make can help w/the colour code .
Here's a diagram for a "Signal Stat" controller"

Have no idea what brand mine is, no name anywhere. Your pic still does not tell me if the internal wire colors are universal to all switches. What I mean is does the gray wire from this switch drawing go to the same bulb as a gray wire from a different manufacturer.
Ed

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by oldspert

Have no idea what brand mine is, no name anywhere. Your pic still does not tell me if the internal wire colors are universal to all switches. What I mean is does the gray wire from this switch drawing go to the same bulb as a gray wire from a different manufacturer.
Ed

How about posting a picture of your switch, maybe some
body can identify it.