The Ford Barn

German guy · 02-17-2025, 02:54 AM

At the risk....

I will be installing a 6.1:1 head on my 30 Tudor as soon as temps warm up. The question of whether or not to use a silicon gasket sealer or not with the Snyder's recommended metalic "Best" gasket comes to mind. Also, I have seen large differences of opinion regarding torque level. Could I get a few suggestions without starting a war among friends?

Also...anyone try the Snyder's coolant level gauge with the sight tube attached to the radiator? The baffles make it impossible to know my coolant level. Too high and it spits out of the cap making a sticky mess on my paint...too low...well.

Big hammer · 02-17-2025, 07:04 AM

Synder’s 6-1 head, best 509g ? gasket, 1/2 vile of head/block sealer, 55 then after several torques 60 ft lbs now 65 ft lbs , no leaks Check for flatness with the head and block !!!

As for coolant level add to much and then use the drain to let some out just below the baffles ?? I would fix your leaking radiator cap and clean out the overflow tube !

nkaminar · 02-17-2025, 07:29 AM

I have had the best success with the Best graphite gasket (#509G) and the copper spray gasket cement. I torque to 55 foot-pounds starting at 25 and increasing in 10 foot-pound increments. I retorque after 15 minutes of run time followed by a retorque at 100 miles and then again at 500 miles. Then once a year. I do not back off the nuts before retorquing. I have used this on the 6.1 and 6.5 heads. I do not use a gasket under the water outlet casting (goose neck) and just use some gasket sealer there.

I agree with Big Hammer that the radiator cap needs a gasket. I have had good luck with oversize O rings.

Bob Bidonde · 02-17-2025, 07:46 AM

Make your own gaskets by repurposing motor oil containers. Gaskets made this way are far superior to commercial ones, and you can tailor them to fit.

nkaminar · 02-17-2025, 08:33 AM

Old oil containers are also good for taking used oil to recycling.

JayJay · 02-17-2025, 09:38 AM

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I agree with nkaminar on the gasket, sealer and torque sequence. I also use just gasket sealer at the gooseneck fitting, no gasket.

1930artdeco · 02-18-2025, 10:34 AM

I used the copper clad gasket and sprayed it with copper coat-both sides. I think I torqued to 60-65 lbs. I also used a gasket under the goose neck.

Mike

katy · 02-18-2025, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

Make your own gaskets by repurposing motor oil containers. Gaskets made this way are far superior to commercial ones, and you can tailor them to fit.

I don't think I would trust a head gasket made from a used motor oil container.

CT Jack · 02-18-2025, 12:11 PM

Guten Tag, Do what Neil (nkaminar) recommends assuming the head is flat within .0375mm and the block surface finish is guten. The best gasket works well.

The water level tube Snyder sells is a manometer. I have personally made a similar version of this device and it works.

Cape Codder · 02-18-2025, 12:30 PM

CT Jack I read your statement with interest. Was wondering if you could share a picture with us all?

I have personally made a similar version of this device and it works.[/QUOTE]

02-17-2025, 02:54 AM	#1
German guy Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2023 Location: German/French border Posts: 104	Kicking a hornet's nest? At the risk.... I will be installing a 6.1:1 head on my 30 Tudor as soon as temps warm up. The question of whether or not to use a silicon gasket sealer or not with the Snyder's recommended metalic "Best" gasket comes to mind. Also, I have seen large differences of opinion regarding torque level. Could I get a few suggestions without starting a war among friends? Also...anyone try the Snyder's coolant level gauge with the sight tube attached to the radiator? The baffles make it impossible to know my coolant level. Too high and it spits out of the cap making a sticky mess on my paint...too low...well.

02-17-2025, 07:04 AM	#2
Big hammer Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Land of Lincoln Posts: 3,430	Re: Kicking a hornet's nest? Synder’s 6-1 head, best 509g ? gasket, 1/2 vile of head/block sealer, 55 then after several torques 60 ft lbs now 65 ft lbs , no leaks Check for flatness with the head and block !!! As for coolant level add to much and then use the drain to let some out just below the baffles ?? I would fix your leaking radiator cap and clean out the overflow tube ! __________________ Don't force it with a little hammer tap, tap, tap get a bigger hammer tap done

02-17-2025, 07:29 AM	#3
nkaminar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 5,855	Re: Kicking a hornet's nest? I have had the best success with the Best graphite gasket (#509G) and the copper spray gasket cement. I torque to 55 foot-pounds starting at 25 and increasing in 10 foot-pound increments. I retorque after 15 minutes of run time followed by a retorque at 100 miles and then again at 500 miles. Then once a year. I do not back off the nuts before retorquing. I have used this on the 6.1 and 6.5 heads. I do not use a gasket under the water outlet casting (goose neck) and just use some gasket sealer there. I agree with Big Hammer that the radiator cap needs a gasket. I have had good luck with oversize O rings. __________________ A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. Last edited by nkaminar; 02-17-2025 at 07:36 AM.

02-17-2025, 09:38 AM	#6
JayJay Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 2,104	Re: Kicking a hornet's nest? Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I agree with nkaminar on the gasket, sealer and torque sequence. I also use just gasket sealer at the gooseneck fitting, no gasket. __________________ JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan It isn't a defect, it's a feature!

02-18-2025, 10:34 AM	#7
1930artdeco Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lynden, Wa Posts: 3,777	Re: Kicking a hornet's nest? I used the copper clad gasket and sprayed it with copper coat-both sides. I think I torqued to 60-65 lbs. I also used a gasket under the goose neck. Mike __________________ 1930 TownSedan (Briggs) 1957 Country Sedan

02-17-2025, 08:33 AM	#5
nkaminar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 5,855	Re: Kicking a hornet's nest? Old oil containers are also good for taking used oil to recycling. __________________ A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past.

02-18-2025, 12:11 PM	#9
CT Jack Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Hebron, CT Posts: 537	Re: Kicking a hornet's nest? Guten Tag, Do what Neil (nkaminar) recommends assuming the head is flat within .0375mm and the block surface finish is guten. The best gasket works well. The water level tube Snyder sells is a manometer. I have personally made a similar version of this device and it works.

02-18-2025, 12:30 PM	#10
Cape Codder Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,337	Re: Kicking a hornet's nest? CT Jack I read your statement with interest. Was wondering if you could share a picture with us all? I have personally made a similar version of this device and it works.[/QUOTE] __________________ I don't care if the "A" Starts BUT sure WANT IT TO STOP!