STEERING BOX djust

[Ford coupe]

Want to try and get some play out of steering at straight ahead steering ..Hope a can get some with the screw on top of steerin g box but when i loosen lock nut i can not turn screw ..I see like a atar washer under the lock nut and sure this is the problem...Could someone explain and tell me if it is safe to do this.The car is a 55 crown vic and just a bit to much play and all is good undeneath

[KULTULZ]

The best thing to do (IMO) is to get a 1955 FORD WORKSHOP MANUAL (available on CD) and go by factory routine.

You will get fifty different answers/methods, most incorrect, on a message board.

If the car is PS, there also will be diagnostics to go through the complete system.

[Jwawhite]

Kultulz, coupla questions:

!) The recommended lithium grease, doesn't the "stiffness?" of the Grease interfere with gauge reading during the Pull Test--- for adjustment of the shaft/worm gear in housing?
2) The Sector/ Worm gear adjustment at the cap: The Manual is not clear, should this bolt and lock nut be backed off all the way before the shaft adjustment, above?

This is for the later model '56 3 worm box which has a bolt and lock nut at top of the box

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Jwawhite

Kultulz, coupla questions:

!) The recommended lithium grease, doesn't the "stiffness?" of the Grease interfere with gauge reading during the Pull Test--- for adjustment of the shaft/worm gear in housing?

Now you know something? That's a damn good question.

Let me check something and I will be back.

2) The Sector/ Worm gear adjustment at the cap: The Manual is not clear, should this bolt and lock nut be backed off all the way before the shaft adjustment, above?

This is for the later model '56 3 worm box which has a bolt and lock nut at top of the box

You loosen the stop nut just enough to allow the adjusting screw to rotate with no slop. You may have to loosen the stop nut additionally as the adj screw goes down so as not to interfere with the adjustment screw.

And once you reach the spec, you lock it down and then recheck the adj.

Hope that made sense.

[KULTULZ]

- PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT -

Adding lubricant to a steering box will not help if the box is already damaged or worn inside. A steering box that has excessive play that cannot be adjusted out, rough or ratchety action when turning, or binding will not be cured by lubrication.

Installing a heavier grease or a lighter oil will not help. Lubrication is designed to prevent wear and corrosion on parts in good condition and will not compensate for damage or wear caused by prior insufficient lubrication, rust corrosion or improper bearing settings and adjustments

.

SOURCE - https://www.stangerssite.com/lubrication.html

There is a great deal of mis-information regarding Saginaw Manual Steering gearboxes around the internet, and in print magazine and DIY manuals. Many customers take lubrication standards from 1940-60s repair manuals or from internet forums. While this info was applicable then it is no longer pertinent today.

SOURCE - https://www.midweststeering.com/sagi...-which-to-use/

CONOCO-PHILLIPS is the lubricant supplier to FORD MOTOR COMPANY

Still checking for pre-load.

[Ford coupe]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Cant figure out the star lock washer...There is the cap over the adjust screw the screw but seems the star is a lock nut maybe..So how do i loose it to turn the screw?? Dont want to screw up the steering box so maybe turn it in an eighth of a turn to see if that helps..The ford repair manual dont give much info on this..

[Jwawhite]

Kultulz

I need to clarify a point. Let's say that I am adjusting the Lash for the Worm/Shaft Gear in the housing with the Shims.
I do not want any interference in this adjustment. I want to get the proper "pull" as per manual. Will the heavier? Lithium grease create a stronger pull?
AND
Does the Box Adjustment for the mesh (bolt and nut) between the Worm Gear and Sector Gear interfere with the Lash Adjustment of worm gear/shaft? Should this bolt and nut be backed off prior to adjusting the Worm/Shaft Gear?
After the Worm/Shaft Gear Lash is adjusted the second adjustment comes into play with the bolt and nut top of the box. The final adj is alignment of the steering wheel as per manual

[Oldcarbearings]

Check for wear in the bearings &oil seals.

[KULTULZ]

Let me try and find my copy of the 55 MANUAL as it is buried (I don't have the 56).

I would think the grease would pull a little harder when cold (setup) but when the grease is heated (exhaust heat) it should be about the same.

Are you just adjusting or are you in the box?

I will also look for the ADJ SCREW METHOD on the 55 FORD.

One would need a 55/57 CHEV SHOP MANUAL I guess as to pull as they used grease instead of fluid.

This is from STANGER-SITE but they seem to specialize in later (1960/ ) compact and intermediator boxes -

The Proper Lubricant

Ford used a moly-based grease inside the steering box. It lubricates the mechanical actions of the box well, is thick enough to cling to parts without running off and settling to the bottom, and is soft enough to flow back and forth inside the box by the pumping action of the rack block and sector teeth. Heat from the exhaust manifold and engine will soften it on cold days and yet the grease stays thick enough not to liquefy and seep out of the bottom seal.

A good moly or lithium based chassis grease will work in this situation and is easy to find in tubes and install using a common cartridge-style grease gun.

Do not use a liquid lubricant (such as 90w axle fluid) in a steering box. Liquid lubricants will settle in the box and not lubricate the upper portions of the gears. It will also seep through the bearings and leak out the bottom seal.

Do not use wheel bearing grease inside the box. Wheel bearing grease is too thick to coat and work properly. Wheel bearing grease is designed for the high heat environment of the brake system and does not soften with heat and will not flow through the box like a molly-based chassis lubricant will.

ALSO -

WARNING

Adding lubricant to a steering box will not help if the box is already damaged or worn inside. A steering box that has excessive play that cannot be adjusted out, rough or ratchety action when turning, or binding will not be cured by lubrication. Installing a heavier grease or a lighter oil will not help. Lubrication is designed to prevent wear and corrosion on parts in good condition and will not compensate for damage or wear caused by prior insufficient lubrication, rust corrosion or improper bearing settings and adjustments.

[Stiggy]

Take the star lock washer off, then you will be able to turn the adjusting screw..

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Stiggy

Take the star lock washer off, then you will be able to turn the adjusting screw..

THANX! for that ...

What appears as a cap screw is actually a cover.

I found a very good video (from an older thread) showing a box re-assembly and it explains all -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJiEtVptNZw

OLDER THREAD - https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...RING+BOX+SEALS

JW - You are asking about the shim stack on the input shaft cover?

I would think the adjust-ability of the input shaft is the proper stack-up of the paper gaskets. It should be in STEERING SPECIFICATIONS in the WSM.

[KULTULZ]

The ADJ SCREW with the STAR (LOCK WASHER) indicates it is a 2T BOX (1954-1956 mid-year).

See if the attached ILL's show large enough -

[Jwawhite]

Kultulz:

Should the Adj Screw be backed off b4 setting the Lash on the worm gear? Service Manual is not clear on this point.
Also I ordered the shim kit from Dennis Carp and you get the Top Gasket, the Felt O Ring for the shaft placed just above the shim cap and 6? 8 and 6? 28 thick shims.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Jwawhite

Should the Adj Screw be backed off b4 setting the Lash on the worm gear? Service Manual is not clear on this point.

The locknut has to be loosened for the adjusting screw to move. You reach the desired adjustment TURNING THE ADJUSTMENT SCREW with the lock nut slightly loosened and then tighten the locking nut.

Also I ordered the shim kit from Dennis Carp and you get the Top Gasket, the Felt O Ring for the shaft placed just above the shim cap and 6? 8 and 6? 28 thick shims.

Now do you have the 2T or 3T STEERING BOX?

Here is a video tutorial on adjusting the sector shaft. It is just an illustration. Follow the FORD WSM for correct final adjustment -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDLYLDBbWNw

[Jwawhite]

Kultulz “What we have here is a failure to communicate.”
I have a 3T in my car.
I am thinking that the adj. screw and lock nut should be backed off b4 I adj the worm gear. The box becomes isolated when the Pitman Arm is disconnected but I think if the adj stud and nut isn’t also slacked off it’d interfere with the worm adjustment.

I have a 3T box for sale comes w/ everything except worm gear and steering shaft.

[KULTULZ]

I am thinking that the adj. screw and lock nut should be backed off b4 I adj the worm gear. The box becomes isolated when the Pitman Arm is disconnected but I think if the adj stud and nut isn’t also slacked off it’d interfere with the worm adjustment.

I see said the blind man ...

Yes, you would not want the interference when you make the steering shaft adjustment. You would back off the sector shaft adjustment and re-adjust.

You have the box out of the car?

[Jwawhite]

SHIM KIT vs STEERING WHEEL PLAY

Does anyone have an idea about where to start other than installing and / or removing paper shims?

I think I may have one .28 and two .6 shims now in the box if memory serves.

Does removal of a .6 equate to 2 inches of wheel play removal?

Will be in the ARC Shop for two days next week, Th and Fri

[Jwawhite]

Kultulz, the box is in the car, it’s not too difficult to get at the shim area or Pitman arm.

Steering wheel will come off easy and I’ll leave the tube bolted to the shim cone and prise it upwards the dash after loosening the column at the dash

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Jwawhite

SHIM KIT vs STEERING WHEEL PLAY

Does anyone have an idea about where to start other than installing and / or removing paper shims?

I think I may have one .28 and two .6 shims now in the box if memory serves.

Does removal of a .6 equate to 2 inches of wheel play removal?

Will be in the ARC Shop for two days next week, Th and Fri

JW ...

The shimming exactly locates the worm gear in the correct position in regards to the sector gear. Depending on tolerances, there is no set shim stack. The adjustment will vary between the same vehicles.

Let me descend into my LIBRARY OF DOOM to find my copy of the WSM and I will get back later today.

[KULTULZ]

OK, I looked and looked. No go. They are buried somewhere.

In your WSM under the STEERING SECTION, a SPEC SHEET should be at the very end of that section. It should give you the end play value (like setting a camshaft). You shim until you reach that value. There is no set shim stack.

Does it seem as there is excessive play in the shaft (steering input/worm gear) movement (up and down)? The bearings many be worn also.