Old Herbrand Tool for pulling heads off Flathead V8's.

[Flathead21]

Hi Guy's.
Got this old time tool set from an old time mechanic who said it was for pulling off the stuck on heads on Flathead V8's; but he didn't know much more about it.
There are 2 pairs of long studs. One pair of long studs is threaded for 18mm sparkplug thread on the end; & the other pair of long studs are 14mm sparkplug thread. I guess you screw a pair of long studs into the plug hole on the head; depending on which size your plug thread is.

There are 2 bridges with a large square hole in them. I guess that they go over the long thread that would be sticking up out of the head. I guess the bridges sit down on the head studs(?). I reckon that you then put the washer & nut onto the long studs, & wind the nut down onto the top of the bridge; & that then pulls the head up enough to get under it, & get it off.
The bridges are stamped HERBRAND 2390.
My question is, would anyone out there have a copy of any original instructions for the tool, or an old catalogue picture / advert for it?
Or, a picture of a complete set; or even any information at all. What date / era would it be? Am I missing any parts for it?

It'd be great to have some information or thoughts on it, so as I can put it back to use again.

Thanks, Dave.

[51 MERC-CT]

Yes was used on Flathead Fords but may be universal and work on any non-Ford flathead engine.

[mfirth]

I have seen some parts of this tool set in some of my dad's old stuff, but didn't know what it was. I have a couple of Herbrand tools and i think they were located in Fremont Ohio.
Thanks for posting. mike

[D. Jones]

Interesting tool. If there is a patent number on it you can look up the patent application on-line and it should have a good description of how it works. That's how I identified the armature lathe I found at a yard sale.

[Jack E/NJ]

From https://archive.org/stream/HerbrandC...052-M_djvu.txt


Jack E/NJ



No. 2390 ''Van-Chrome'^ Ford Cylinder Head Puller For Easy Lifting of Rusted and Corroded Heads Drop Forged from Chrome Vanodium Steel Mechanics encounter difficulty and resulting loss of time when removing aluminum heads on Ford V-S's because of corrosion and rusting of studs. Parts arc frequently damaged because heads are on so tight that ‘‘chisel and pry’* methods are applied, which cause costly replacements due to breaking heads and cracking blocks. This specially designed Herbrand Puller removes the head with an even, positive pull, regardless of how tight they may be sealed to the block. The cost of these pullers will be saved on the first job, and they lick flat rates to a standstill. The crossarms of these Pullers bridge the cylinder head, the adjusting screws on either end line up with, and rest on top of, the cylinder head studs. The main forcing screws turn into the spark plug holes, then pressure is applied to the hex pulling nuts alternately with a wrench, and the head responds quickly and easily to the pulling power of the forcing screws. Always used in pairs, these Pullers consist of 2 crossarms, equipped with 2 adjustable levelling studs; 2 collars; 2 hex turn-down nuts and 4 forcing screws: 2-14mm for V8-60 and 2-18mm for V8-85. For V8-85 use levelling stud in end of crossarm; for \^8-60 use center stud hole Satin nickel. Weight 5 lbs.

[Lawrie]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

BY the looks of it you have the whole set minus the box.
I have the same set in its orig box,it works well
Lawrie

[Flathead21]

Hello again Guys,


Thanks for the replys.


That's interesting Jack. Thanks for posting that info. What year Herbrand catalogue is that from?

I have a 1937 Herbrand catalogue, & this tool isn't in there.
Is there a picture of the 2390 tool in your Herbrand catalogue; & if so, could you post that?


Lawrie, I see that you're in Australia too.
Would you be able to send me a few photos of your tool; & it's box?
The crossarms or bridges on mine seem to have had the fixed pins on the end ground down, so it would be good to see what the correct length ones look like; so as i can re-make mine.


Thanks guys,
Dave.

[Jack E/NJ]

The link posted earlier suggests ca 1940. Catalog 52-M. Jack E/NJ

HERBRAND TOOLS ARE MADE IN CANADA SECO SALES and SERVICE, LTD. 90 Sherbourne St. Toronto, Ontario Copyrighted 1940 Printed in Canada

[richard crow]

does it come with a stick of dinamite

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by richard crow

does it come with a stick of dinamite

LOL, the next best think is built-in! Loosen the bolts/studs and turn it over and off they come.

[richard crow]

JSeery back in the 1950,s my father had a 36 ford with alum heads. he wanted to do a ring job . he removed all the nuts head would not budge. so he decided to start the eng no luck. he drove the car back & forth for a week no luck. he put the nuts back on & drove the car witched smoked & burned oil. he junked the car a year later

[JSeery]

That's interesting, normally they pop right off. The heads must have been totally fused to the block!

[slowforty]

I suggest adding acetone to the penetrating oil mix.

[Tim Ayers]

Pretty neat. Judging by the bolts that appear to be 14mm spark plug thread, I'm thinking there are two arms missing. For it to have a constant and even pull, I'd assume it would need to pull from the four plug holes.

[Bored&Stroked]

Interesting tool . . . can see how it would work with just two of the threaded spark plug "studs" per head. I bet it would have issues with aluminum heads that were really corroded onto the studs.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Interesting tool . . . can see how it would work with just two of the threaded spark plug "studs" per head. I bet it would have issues with aluminum heads that were really corroded onto the studs.

I can see it too, but for an even pull, I guess you'd use the two center holes if you only had the two cranes or work your way down until it breaks free.

[Ronnieroadster]

Looking at how this tool is designed it looks like you need to remove head studs. The location for where the tool needs to be held firm against a surface that's not moving would not be very stable if its just sitting on the top of studs. Looks like there's more to this than what's shown in the picture's like longer bolts to go down in the holes or taller studs possibly.
Ronnieroadster

[Lawrie]

The little screws set on top of the head studs, I have used mine on lots of cast and alloy heads, it works great.
Lawrie

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Lawrie

The little screws set on top of the head studs, I have used mine on lots of cast and alloy heads, it works great.
Lawrie

Lawrie:

Does the OP's set look complete to you? Does the larger "studs" screw into the spark plug holes?

[Lawrie]

Tim, its missing one large nut and thick washer ,for the long studs that go into the spark plug holes, one small 3/8 unf nut ,thats about it, mine has all the studs and nuts hardened
Lawrie