Getting my A back on the road-three questions

[Bob Leonard]

I have a 1931 Deluxe Roadster that I have had for about 64 years (Yes, I'm an old fart). It was my second A, my first being a 1928 pickup truck. Over the years, I have driven it for a while, and then it sat up for a while. This last time, it has been sitting up for about 15 years or so.

I want to get it back on the road and use it frequently. To do that, I dropped the oil pan and cleaned it out really well. I did not want to run it with a lot of sludge in it. Before starting it, I intend to gap the points and plugs and set up the timing. I bought a new glass sediment bowl (I don't know what happened to my old one) and need to reinstall the carburetor.

1. I'm also going to run several gallons of fuel through it to make sure that the gas tank is fairly clean. I'll replace the oil, gas, and water (for now at least, I'll use antifreeze before the first freeze, but I want to start with water in case there are any leaks to deal with).

My first question is: What else should I do or inspect before starting it?

2. After I run it (probably only for a minute or so), I will prepare to get it down from the jacks and take it out of the shop. For that, I intend to change the transmission and rear-end fluids and go through and lubricate all of the grease fittings.

So my second question is: What else do I need to do then to start driving it. A subsidiary issue would be whether there is anything that I can do to the tires to make sure that they are road-worthy. They have been sitting up for a while and might be a little stiff.

3. Assuming that I get this far, my third question is: What should I do to turn my, now road-worthy, car into a daily driver? I am considering switching out the generator for an alternator. I want to keep it as original as reasonably practical.

Thanks for any help that you can give me.

[Harpkatt]

I think this is a pretty good start. Check through your wiring-that there's no frays or corrosion, wouldn't want it to burn down. Probably a good time to pull your drums and grease throughout the brakes. You can grease your pedal shafts, water pump. Check for play in the steering and suspension while it's up, and insure the ball. isn't loose on the wishbone. Not too much else to do on these simple cars I can think of. I support getting it rolling on the old tires,but I would suggest replacing. A roadster pick a friend had for a while had old tires and it would skid a lot if braking a little too hard. I've never even gotten close to having my tires skid on my coupe.

[Charlie Stephens]

The tire question is easy, they are not road worthy. I have heard several answers about the life of tires and none of them were more than 10 years under the best circumstances.

About the alternator, I hate the look of an alternator and suggest you stick with the stock generator or have a newer generator modified to fit. They make an alternator conversion that looks like a generator but it is expensive and I am not impressed with it.

Best of luck with your project and post some photos.

Charlie Stephens

[Kurt in NJ]

check/add lubricant to steering gear too.
Restoration to original specifications makes a reliable car.
For me an original generator has been more reliable than the alternator that is used for most conversions and the belt lasts longer with the original generator because of the pulley sizes used on alternators .
Properly working shock absorbers are very important for daily driving and safe handling—-

[ronn]

fire extinguisher.............. and yes to the tires.


400. ish at Jegs or such, if you dont want to get crazy.

[nkaminar]

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Safety is paramount. Brakes, tires, steering, lights, horn, etc. Consider outside rear view mirrors and turn indicators if you don't have them.

You are probably going to have to clean the points before you gap them. You may have to clean out the carburetor if it sat with gasoline in it.

All the other suggestions that people have offered are valid.

[Wick]

Tires! Gas guage cork float won't like today's gas, replace with modern float.
Check wiring behind the dash for bare or loose wires. All new hoses are a must.
Keep the generator.

[Bob Bidonde]

Flush the cooling system, drain & refill the gas tank, change all of the oils, file the ignition points, clean the battery terminals, charge the battery, adjust the fan belt, put air in the tires, adjust the brakes, grease the front wheel bearings, clean the windows and take her for a close-to-home spin.

[Bob Leonard]

WOW!!! What a great response. Thanks to all who answered my questions. I will add these items to my to-do list.

I'm really surprised about the answers to the generator and the tires. Until I get more information about changing to an alternator, I will shelve that idea. As to the tires, I guess that I'll be in the market soon.

And yes, I will post some pictures. My grandson was helping me but he moved to Colorado. If he comes home for Christmas, we'll probably get all of this finished if I haven't finished before then.

Thanks again. I didn't expect seven responses within less than 24 hours. What a great group of people.

[Jim/GA]

A few lubrication points that are often overlooked:
1. The little distributor oiler on the side. Pull it out and drip as much lightweight machine oil in there as it will take.

2. Drip a bunch of engine oil in the 2 lubrication holes on the top of the throttle assembly where it is bolted to the back of the engine. Work the throttle a bunch to work the oil in. You can't over-oil it.

3. Oil the generator, if your generator still has the little oil holes/caps.

Have fun!

[nkaminar]

Bob, I am also often mistaken for an old fart because of my age.

[700rpm]

Make sure your horn works.

[ThirstyThirty]

Originally Posted by Bob Leonard

I have a 1931 Deluxe Roadster that I have had for about 64 years (Yes, I'm an old fart).

<snip>

3. Assuming that I get this far, my third question is: What should I do to turn my, now road-worthy, car into a daily driver? I am considering switching out the generator for an alternator. I want to keep it as original as reasonably practical.

Hello Bob ~
Read your post other day. Thought: hmm, wonder what part of Texas he calls home?

Tires! Definitely check the tires. (a nice way to say ownership past 64 years and no (new) tire change... car is in line for new tires! imo, old tires is not road worthy!)

Back in High School days... all of our Model A's were daily drivers! Often we were just happy to get another tire if one was needed. round, some tread and right wheel size made for a winner! But today these times have changed. Good road safety, tire-wise, suggests tire replacement at 3 years or thereabouts no matter how much tread depth is remaining. Modern roads and hiways are tuff on tire rubber! Not to mention or overlook hazards in the roads. Many cities will never get all their pot holes fixed. I see many down here on my modern car daily driver outings!! Town roads and freeways! I know of one road section here that even a new Caddy will rattle!!! lol

When thinking about tires for Model A's the thoughts and advice of two good friends, long-term, experienced Model A'rs come to mind.

1) Life-long Model A'r, restorer and excellent mechanic. I recently was talking to him about tires for Model A's. He said: 'depends on if you plan to just drive it around the block and through the neighborhood now and then or...! (as such, then the choice is simple...)

2) Long-term Model A'r. Passed on. Had early A's and couple Ford V8 cars; 1936 Ford slant sedan, original engine. Owned a dedicated shop for Model A's for his own use! I was talking to him one time about Model A tires and he said, "... now they have radial tires for Model A's - 21" and 19." Bit pricey compared to some such as biased ply, but these days the tires we buy new for our modern cars are close in costs. For speeds over 40/45 mph sustained and long trips beyond home to high school and back... I would want best tire out there for my Model A 'daily driver'!

Radial Tires - Model A Fords

Model A & AA (28-31)

Also: If you are located in a large enough city, and a local Model A Ford club member ask some of the touring club members. They will have opinions. And run what they think best! And they will have both experience and such to back up their Model A tire buy decisions.

Haven't read any The Restorer issues lately, but no doubt there should be some recent tech on the subject of tires for Model A Fords.

Glad to hear your roadster is soon to be running and driving again soon!

[David in San Antonio]

1. I love my pre-focused LED headlights “Logo Lite” brand. They have excellent range at night and good cut-off so they don’t blind oncoming drivers. I use my Roadster as often as possible including at night and when it’s raining. Really good headlights are a must. Another benefit is the LEDs use so little amperage I dont have to fool with the generator adjustment. When I switch the lights on the ammeter barely moves.
2. I’m also concerned with other drivers noticing me. Go for the LED light panels (not individual bulbs) for the brake/taillight/turn signals in the rear, and LED bulbs in the cowl lamps (which I have wired as turn signals.) They are as noticeable to other drivers as lights on modern cars.
3. Rain-x on the windshield because the wiper is cute but inadequate. When I first tried this on my family car years ago I was amazed at how the water just beaded up and flew off the windshield. Tip: the cleaner the glass is before you apply it the better it works.
Project Farm on YouTube tested rain repellents and Rain-x did not come in first, but it’s available everywhere and I’ll be darned if I can remember which ones did better.
4. If you are up to it, insulate the firewall and the floorboards against heat. As a Texan you know how the sun beats down on the blacktop and that heat radiates right back up through the floor. Two summers ago, before I insulated, I did a trip when the temperature was well over 110 degrees. I imagine the road surface must have been 130-140 or more. When I got out of the car it was actually cooler outside!
The firewall insulator takes some effort to install because you have to disconnect the wires and fuel line running through the firewall. Based on comments here, I think it’s easier on a Roadster than a closed car. The engine was out but I didn’t need to pull the gas tank.
I also keep a spray bottle full of water on the parcel shelf in the summer and spray my shirt and canvas hat regularly. Evaporative cooling makes a big difference. I also keep a plastic drink bottle and take big gulps frequently. This aids cooling and staves off dehydration.
Where in Texas are you?

[Rob Doe]

I've read, if you can get the distributor out, you could add a quart of oil to the oil galley through the distributor shaft hole before starting the engine. You might want to check the galley for sludge as you did the pan. Be careful not to accidentally plug the bearing drain holes if it has a lot of sludge.

I've never had to do this, as our car had a fresh engine when purchased. Perhaps others will comment on some specifics.

[Flathead]

Originally Posted by Rob Doe

I've read, if you can get the distributor out, you could add a quart of oil to the oil galley through the distributor shaft hole before starting the engine. You might want to check the galley for sludge as you did the pan. Be careful not to accidentally plug the bearing drain holes if it has a lot of sludge.

I've never had to do this, as our car had a fresh engine when purchased. Perhaps others will comment on some specifics.

Surprised no one else mentioned this, definitely a good idea, the main bearings don't get any oil until the pump fills up the base of the valve chamber. That could take a while for an engine that has sat for that long.

[ThirstyThirty]

Originally Posted by Flathead

Surprised no one else mentioned this, definitely a good idea, the main bearings don't get any oil until the pump fills up the base of the valve chamber. That could take a while for an engine that has sat for that long.

Lots of good tech and ideas here at the FB. If it was mine, I would slowly turn engine over with crank and no plugs. Oil in hole and compressed air in to move it about, towards cyl. Just to move the internal's combination of parts about. Then use starter, and plugs still out, to 'no load' run the crank ie mains n rods with no load other than rings as per above P's comment/advice. But...

an even better idea (way) to my way of thinking would be (since car in air per OP) would be to drop the pan, pop main and rod caps and put some oil (don't loose any shims) on the bearing surfaces. Torqued close to spec and hand turn the engine around at least once. Move that oil about to make thin film. Pop caps again, oil to lowers and then torque to spec.

It is not too much of a task, and I have done it more times than I care to admit as... I lost babbit center main in orig engine... and scrapped in a new babbit pour center main, not yet line bored. Took a while, but I did get the running clearance to spec out. Started, ran quiet again! (I have done several modern engines with loose bearings, too. .007 brass shim stock, measure as you go! This kind of work is usually done on one's back if engine not pulled. And that is the reason to shim! Rods and mains 'talked' on start up, but shimmed sounded sweet and new again. Never lost a shim! Done right, good for another 25,000 miles or more! But has to be done correctly.) Worth the effort, imo, as I did not want to use bacon rinds on the A! lol

[Bob Leonard]

Great responses, but this is turning out to be more than I thought it would be. I had planned to replace the missing fuel sediment bowl, slap the carburetor back on, install the new battery, and get going.

As I said, planned. Reality is showing its ugly face.

First, I cannot find the carb that was originally on it anywhere in my shop. Fortunately, I have a spare Zenith, but it's pretty scuzzy. I have ordered a carburetor kit which should be here tomorrow, and I'll have to update the innards. The outside has a fair amount of rust. Any ideas about getting it off of there? I know it won't affect performance, but I might as well address it now while the carb is off. I planned to simply use a solvent, but I am wondering if that will destroy the paint.

Second, I went to drain the fuel tank and the valve under it wouldn't turn. At all. I even removed it and put it in a vise, but I could not turn it without bending the turn handle. I ordered a new one that should be here soon. I don't anticipate problems installing it, but if it got stuck like that, could it be that my gas tank is gunked up, too? I don't want to have to remove it to get it boiled out so any suggestions would be appreciated.

The good news is that while dealing with the above issues, I was able to gap the points and plugs and time the engine. I'll probably retime it just before I try to start it.

Also, I am now alerted to the fact that there will probably be more issues as I go forward. Is there anything that I should look at in particular to head off problems?

Finally, I am not sure about FB etiquette. Should I post this as a new thread? Would that help in getting responses?

Thanks for everything; you guys have been GREAT.

Bob

[ronn]

keep going as you are...........

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Bob Leonard

Second, I went to drain the fuel tank and the valve under it wouldn't turn. At all. I even removed it and put it in a vise, but I could not turn it without bending the turn handle. I ordered a new one that should be here soon. I don't anticipate problems installing it, but if it got stuck like that, could it be that my gas tank is gunked up, too? I don't want to have to remove it to get it boiled out so any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks for everything; you guys have been GREAT.

Bob

Bob, the new shut off valves are ball valves (finally!!) so you shouldn't have the issues as with the old valves. I hope you ordered a "pencil" filter along with the new valve to keep junk out of your carburetor. https://www.brattons.com/FUEL-TANK-F...uctinfo/13280/