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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Fort dodge, Iowa
Posts: 1,228
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I imagine numerous guys have installed a Saginaw 525 steering box in their early Fords. I was wondering what ratio they liked and if they used a short or long input shaft box.
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Kansas
Posts: 1,172
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In my '41 Merc I used the slower ratio 525...24:1? Used the short shaft version. I had the 16:1 box in it previously and changed it for a family member with less arm strength, and surprisingly I like it better as well. Feels "right". I modified the stock mount (bit of a job!) and shortened the column,added a bearing to the bottom,and welded a coupler to the shaft to attach to the box. Heated and rebent the '41 pitman arm to keep the drag link level.
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"It don't take but country smarts to solve the problem" (Smokey Yunick) '41 Merc Town Sedan / 260" 8CM engine '66 Fairlane four door / "warmed up" ![]() |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Napa,California
Posts: 6,562
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I also use the 24 to 1 ratio in my '40. It also has the short shaft.
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Napa, Ca.
Posts: 31
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I measured the 525 box up to my 50 Oldsmobile.
Two of the bolts Lined right up. I had to heat & pound in the curve in the frame Slightly (the diameter of the new box is slightly Greater) I drilled the third hole in the frame, Welded a round tube through the frame for strength, bolted the box down & the 50 pitman arm bolted right on. Instant power steering. Rick Napa, Ca. |
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#5 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 11,633
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Forgive my lack of knowledge, but I haven't needed PS until now, so I'm just getting started. I just realized I haven't driven my car much this summer because of this. |
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#6 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Fort dodge, Iowa
Posts: 1,228
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 5,170
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Absolutely use the 24-1 box. I have the quicker ratio 525 in my 40 and after you get moving it's alright but parallel parking is tough. Also I have a 16 inch steering wheel for better leverage. I changed to the Pete & Jake's bolt in steering mount. Took 2 u joints butted together to make the connection. Had I used the long input shaft version I could have done it with one.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Napa,California
Posts: 6,562
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Ace Hardware should have a wheel barrow bearing that is a perfect fit and they also have a "split collar" that will hold it in place. Used the same set up on my '40. If you are using the stock column I also recommend removing the old original bushing at the top and replacing it with a later Ford bearing and collar that is carried by most early Ford parts people.
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#9 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Fort dodge, Iowa
Posts: 1,228
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#10 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Fort dodge, Iowa
Posts: 1,228
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Kansas
Posts: 1,172
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If you put a bearing in the lower tube and have a solid coupler to the input of the 525 box it makes the whole system solid and no extra support is needed. The shaft with bearing in the tube is rigid enough. Be careful to set your lower steering wheel to upper column gap before welding stuff-don't want a big gap or have the wheel rubbing the column.
__________________
"It don't take but country smarts to solve the problem" (Smokey Yunick) '41 Merc Town Sedan / 260" 8CM engine '66 Fairlane four door / "warmed up" ![]() |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 5,170
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2 joints were needed because of the short shaft box and the length of the new column shift column. The column worked out perfect with the lower shift lever clearing the the motor and firewall just right. The joints are splined on each end with short piece of DD in the middle. The joints butt together. If I knew what i know now I'd have made sure I bought the long input shaft 24-1 box. I've driven it his way for 4 years with no problem but this winter it may be ready for a change?
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Napa,California
Posts: 6,562
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Double post
Last edited by TJ; 10-09-2024 at 02:25 PM. |
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Napa,California
Posts: 6,562
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Yes I anchored the bottom, I used a piece of flat steel and cut a hole in it to fit the column tube. I then split the piece in half and welded the bottom part of a 1- 1/2" muffler clamp to the half of steel plate. I then drilled holes in the outer edge of the plate and used bolts(1/4 ") and T-nuts to secure the plate to the wood floor boards and up against the column tube. Install the muffler clamp U-bolt and you are done. Your carpet or floormat will cover it. I just felt the need to anchor the bottom.
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,025
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I used a long shaft 525 that I pulled out of a Nova, Pete& Jakes mount (holds box closer to the rail than the adapter plate), and a '36 column connected with one joint.
Spline x 3/4" smooth bore joint, shaft collar to control end play, wheel barrow bearing, and Ford clamp on the bottom. Flat plate welded to the column tube and bolted to the floor where it passes thru. F-1 upper bearing, Mustang cone, and spring at the top. Horn wire thru the shaft and out the side of the tube with a copper bushing and Jeep brush. |
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