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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: W. Mich.
Posts: 532
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We have a Model A that is giving the following symptom. It runs fine on the flat roads but when climbing a hill, it sounds like the engine is racing. I'm thinking that the clutch disc is either getting worn or oil has gotten on it. In the event it is oil, I'm wondering what people think about taking the inspection cover off the clutch housing & spray brake cleaner or carb cleaner on the assembly to wash away the oil. Has any one done this & did it work for them? This engine was put in as a rebuilt touring engine 3 years ago. It did give a lot of blow by until I changed the oil fill tube out for one off an engine that didn't have a blow by problem.
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Connecticut Shoreline
Posts: 1,977
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When the engine was installed three years ago, what did the clutch look like?
Have you checked the adjustment? When your going up the hill. If you add gas, does the engine rev up but the car doesn’t respond in its speed as fast as the engine? |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: on the Littlefield
Posts: 6,555
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Is there free play in the movement of the clutch pedal?
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: W. Mich.
Posts: 532
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The clutch has some free play. It is a lightened flywheel with V8 pressure plate. The clutch was all assembled when I got the engine back. I was told it was all new parts. When I go up hill if I give it more gas the speed may increase but the free wheeling gets worse. I don't want to make it worse so I will back off the gas a little going up hill.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,370
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Sounds like it is worn out or out of adjustment. Oil would usually make it grab.
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 5,860
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: W. Mich.
Posts: 532
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I would have thought oil would make it slip.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Auburn Washington
Posts: 2,662
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one other thing to look at is the rear wheel, you could have sheared the key. when it starts slipping watch the speedometer. if it speeds up it is not your clutch.
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 8,043
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A common incorrect assumption. It took me a while to get my head around that!
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: W. Mich.
Posts: 532
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I sure hope it's not a broken axle. We drove over 200 miles Saturday with it doing this.
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: NNNNNNNNJJJJJJJJJJ
Posts: 7,647
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really does sound like your clutch just needs adjustment.
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#12 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2022
Location: Findlay, Ohio
Posts: 96
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If it's the clutch, I would think you could take off in 2nd, get it rolling maybe 5 mph and shift to 3rd and go full throttle. If it lugs and pulls the car up to 30 mph like that, stop and do the same test, then once in 3rd, push the clutch in about 2" then right back out. Only at 1/2 throttle. You'll know if it's the clutch or not.
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#13 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
Posts: 5,715
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![]() Quote:
I once had a '55 w/a 272 V-8, the rear main seal started leaking and oil got on the clutch, doing 30 or so (MPH), if I stepped on the gas the engine would rev up but no increase in speed.
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If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn! |
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: W. Mich.
Posts: 532
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At least At this time I don't have a broken axle. Checked that a few hours ago. I do have a few thousands end play in the driver side rear wheel. It may be a worn axle shim. I did pull the inspection cover off & I know I have a free throw out bearing. If I push the clutch in 3/4" the bearing starts to contact the pressure plate.
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: W. Mich.
Posts: 532
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Ramman, I tried what you suggested & on the second time when I pushed the clutch in a couple of inches, the engine raced. I don't have anymore time to test today.
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: 34.22 N 118.36 W
Posts: 1,181
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It sounds like the clutch cannot transmit full torque when you need to climb a hill
The V8 clutch has the centrifugal force weights on the arms and the tractor clutch doesn’t In either case it is probably that the disk is worn below the preload height for the clutch assembly I have dealt with this before One answer is to have the disk relined with a thicker material Or you can add shims under the clutch springs to increase preload pressure Just be careful with disassembly of the PP A hydraulic press is nice as you can lock the pressure as you remove fulcrum bolts then release slowly J
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: W. Mich.
Posts: 532
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I got to work on the clutch today. The old disc is .01 thicker than a new disc I have. I don't see any oil on the pressure plate or the disc. The throw out bear is shot. I will replace that as well as the pilot bearing.
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