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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2023
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 93
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The '36 coupe I bought was pretty much dismantled when I got it. The steering wheel was in a box. The steering column had been removed. I wanted to make sure the steering box functioned so I went to put the wheel on but the shaft doesn't stick all the way through. The column appears to have a little room to slide further onto the steering box but won't budge. The column lock pin isn't engaged with the shaft so I'm able to turn it from stop to stop. I'm afraid to try to try to pound the tube further onto the steering box because the keys that I have don't turn in the column lock and I would hate to have the pin engage. Do I need to remove the lock cylinder so I can get a key made? How do I do that? And how do I remove the column lock?
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: on the Littlefield
Posts: 6,554
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In the first picture it looks like the pin that retains the tumbler has be drilled some perhaps threaded. If that pin is removed the tumbler comes out and there is a good chance that the key number is stamped on the tumbler.
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2023
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 93
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It looks as though it's threaded. Would I drill it then use an easy-out?
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: on the Littlefield
Posts: 6,554
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thread a screw into the hole and pull the pin out like a nail
It looks like it already was drill and tapped to use a screw to pull the pin out. A screw with a lot of threads a nut washer and small socket could work too. |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Beverly Kansas
Posts: 5,298
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Steering wheel...is the half moon key on the shaft seated down snug and angled correctly?
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2023
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 93
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 5,187
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Yes it appears the outer column is not all the way on. If the lock bolt on the column drop is OUT or in the lock position The outer column will not go on all the way. Do screw a screw into the lock pin and pull to remove the cylinder and pull the cylinder out, save the cylinder since they are special. An original appearing Hurd key (round head) can be cut.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Montgomery, NY & Port St. Lucie Florida
Posts: 975
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The pin is cast iron and usually drills easily.
It's already been drilled off center, try an easy out and pull it straight out. If that fails, you may have to drill it out properly. That will not be easy as the bit will "find'' that offset hole every time. Don't drill too far, if you do the cylinder, will go to lock heaven. Once the cylinder is out, I can cut a key to the code you will find on the side. I have new and used cylinders if yours proves to be unusable. Any questions here's my cell 845 551 5132 Phil
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Early Ford Lock & Key Service https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46583 |
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#9 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2023
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 93
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I'm going to try using a 10-32 bottom tap to hopefully get enough threads in it. The pin is splined isn't it? It will have to be pulled straight out. I don't think an easy out would work for this.
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,025
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I use a long screw, slide a deep socket over it, and use a nut and washer against the socket to pull it straight out. Usually don't come out to hard.
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#11 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2023
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 93
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