The Ford Barn

sandbug · 09-01-2024, 12:18 AM

Okay! I'm going to ask some friends in my club too, but the more knowledge to solving this, the better!

The car is a modified 1930 Roadster. It is all 12 volts negative with an alternator. It has a re-wound horn to 12 volts, and all the lights were converted to 12 volts. FSI distributor, fuel pump, and many engine modifications. Seat belts too.

All the electrical was working fine with an aftermarket kit on the steering column (turn lights as a part of the brake lights case, and cowl turn lights in the front), and then I decided to change out the turn signal for one that has momentary buttons and a timer to self cancel the turn lights.

When I took out the aftermarket kit, I noticed it was pretty intrusive on the brake lights and tail light wiring, so I did my best to change as much back to normal as possible. I wired up the self cancel light setup, and they worked great, then we realized the back running and head lights weren't working, unless you were pushing the brake pedal. Push the brake pedal and get headlights and taillights!

I have disconnected the self canceling setup and switches. The car will start and run. It has power to the alternator cut-out bolt, but I get no power on the lighting switch points. The horn does not work either (unless it is hooked directly with wires (to make sure it was still working).

The instrument panel dash light is working. It seems to be only the lighting switch power point having issues, or some strange ground somewhere. Thanks!

nkaminar · 09-01-2024, 05:55 AM

Sit down with a blank sheet of paper and some colored pencils. Draw out your wiring diagram. Determine where each wire goes by physical or electrical means. Include the innards of the all the switches. You can determine the innards of the switches with the ohm setting on your multimeter.

It is either a mistake in the wiring or a problem with one or more switch or other electrical component. It is possible you burned something out. Do you have fuses in the wiring?

katy · 09-01-2024, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sandbug

It has power to the alternator cut-out bolt,

What/where is the "alternator cut-out bolt"?

sandbug · 09-01-2024, 12:46 PM

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09-01-2024, 12:18 AM	#1
sandbug Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Glendale, California Posts: 16	Electrical Issue - A Deep Dive, and the Now Issue Okay! I'm going to ask some friends in my club too, but the more knowledge to solving this, the better! The car is a modified 1930 Roadster. It is all 12 volts negative with an alternator. It has a re-wound horn to 12 volts, and all the lights were converted to 12 volts. FSI distributor, fuel pump, and many engine modifications. Seat belts too. All the electrical was working fine with an aftermarket kit on the steering column (turn lights as a part of the brake lights case, and cowl turn lights in the front), and then I decided to change out the turn signal for one that has momentary buttons and a timer to self cancel the turn lights. When I took out the aftermarket kit, I noticed it was pretty intrusive on the brake lights and tail light wiring, so I did my best to change as much back to normal as possible. I wired up the self cancel light setup, and they worked great, then we realized the back running and head lights weren't working, unless you were pushing the brake pedal. Push the brake pedal and get headlights and taillights! I have disconnected the self canceling setup and switches. The car will start and run. It has power to the alternator cut-out bolt, but I get no power on the lighting switch points. The horn does not work either (unless it is hooked directly with wires (to make sure it was still working). The instrument panel dash light is working. It seems to be only the lighting switch power point having issues, or some strange ground somewhere. Thanks!

09-01-2024, 05:55 AM	#2
nkaminar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 5,872	Re: Electrical Issue - A Deep Dive, and the Now Issue Sit down with a blank sheet of paper and some colored pencils. Draw out your wiring diagram. Determine where each wire goes by physical or electrical means. Include the innards of the all the switches. You can determine the innards of the switches with the ohm setting on your multimeter. It is either a mistake in the wiring or a problem with one or more switch or other electrical component. It is possible you burned something out. Do you have fuses in the wiring? __________________ A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past.

09-01-2024, 12:46 PM	#4
sandbug Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Glendale, California Posts: 16	Re: Electrical Issue - A Deep Dive, and the Now Issue Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Here.IMG_8386.jpg