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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Lake Forest, California
Posts: 265
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I am working on the rear brakes on my Cabriolet. Tonight, after packing the rear roller bearings I tried to put in the hub seals. Ugh—they seem too big to go in. Is there a trick to this or do I have the wrong seals? Just to confirm, the seal lip points “in” toward the bearing?
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Litchfield Park, AZ
Posts: 34
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I used this for my 1929 Coupe and it worked well.
Snyder’s part number: HUB SEAL DRIVER Part # A-1175-T | Model Year 28-31 Use this handy tool for pressing the A-1175 seal into the rear wheel hub. Presses seal in to the proper depth for the snap ring to be installed. U.S.A. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Lake Forest, California
Posts: 265
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Chalk this up as experience—I learn the hard way again. Thank you LAV—looks like I need to get a seal driver.
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Experience is a cruel teacher. It gives the exam first, then the lesson. |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,110
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I have access to a lathe, so I made a driver out of some round stock. Regardless, after you get the seal in place but before you install the snap ring, go around the outside of the seal and tap-tap-tap the perimeter down with a large punch and hammer to assure that it’s in place and square.
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JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan It isn't a defect, it's a feature! |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1,559
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About 4 years ago I had a pair of seals that were definitely a smidgin too large, prudent emerying of the seal resolved the problem. The more recent seals seem to fit OK using an off-cut of wood and gentle tap tap tap technique.
"Just to confirm, the seal lip points “in” toward the bearing?" YES |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Lake Forest, California
Posts: 265
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Experience is a cruel teacher. It gives the exam first, then the lesson. |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,152
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I just did mine. Broke down and bought a HF seal driver. I tapped it in just below the snap ring groove. Installed the snap ring then dropped it a couple times (about 8- 10") for the bearing to drive the seal back against the snap ring.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 8,044
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I use an old bearing as a tool to drive the seal in and stop just as the groove for circlip is exposed.
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#9 |
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Join Date: Oct 2023
Posts: 62
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+1 on the seal driver. Fast and perfect
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#10 |
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 822
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: North Warrandyte, Melbourne,Victoria, Australia
Posts: 112
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I always recommend to customers installing ANY oil seals to use a socket slightly bigger than the OD of the oil seal itself whether it's imperial or metric NEVER EVER press on the seal it self as you could damage not only the housing (OD) BUT more&most importantly the lip &spring which holds the lubricant in.
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#12 | ||
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,152
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![]() Quote:
Quote:
I've used this method in the past (I also use sockets for pressing U Joints). But I didn't have a 3" in dia socket or an old bearing........ |
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