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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chester Vt
Posts: 8,985
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I was told to re post this
At present I'm trying t build a street engine that will have adequate power, good fuel economy , at a reasonable cost. Unfortunately, the engine is not acceptable in most places because it has no "speed equipment" or fancy "stuff? amd looks like a stock engine, Actually, it really is quite stock. I've eliminated all the stuff that can cause trouble away from home. like fuel pump, generator, early water pups and fan./ Engine should produce 20/30 ft/lbs of torqur between 2/3000 rpm, 20 + MPG and cost aprox 3K$. Run 50 75K miles before rebuild with proper maintained. Another problem, finding all the right stock parts needed.. All you need is parts that have a long life. the only mod id highr compression, and that's not as easy as you think!!! Gramps. What do you thing the stock compressiom of a flathead is???? Gramps |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: iowa
Posts: 257
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6 or 7:1
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Orcas Island Washington
Posts: 5,881
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Ron, I like the way you think!
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Owner/Operator of 'Jailbar Ranch' on the side of Mt. Pickett. Current stable consists of 1946 1/2 ton pickup turned woodie wagon with FH V8, 1946 Tonner Pickup with 226 H six, 1979 Toyota landcruiser wagon, now wearing 1947 Ford Jailbar sheet metal. 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson) |
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#4 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: South Texas
Posts: 2,042
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![]() Quote:
The best commonly available stock Ford heads with center water outlet are the 59 A-B heads and the best 8BA era heads are the EAB heads. You can download the big compression ratio table along with a lot of other good information from the flathead Techno Source assembled by Glenn, available here: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/9p8pg...=j2uwogn3&dl=0 |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chester Vt
Posts: 8,985
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When actually measuring the stock compression ratio, it comes out about one point lowe.
Gramps |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chester Vt
Posts: 8,985
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Gramps |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 463
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Ron,
I think it's time for you to write another book. Maybe a manual of just random thoughts and ideas. Put me down for a first edition. Phil |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: sydney australia
Posts: 1,125
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i'm in sounds like a good solid trouble free driver. Fast and fancy is all good till its not
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Kansas
Posts: 1,172
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Ron, do you have any pictures of a head with bronze fill in the exhaust transfer area? That's interesting.
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"It don't take but country smarts to solve the problem" (Smokey Yunick) '41 Merc Town Sedan / 260" 8CM engine '66 Fairlane four door / "warmed up" ![]() |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chester Vt
Posts: 8,985
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During the 60's, the track we raced at, didn't allow aftermarket cylinder heads to keep costs down, but any body with a torch could braz one up. Unfortunately, the heads warped badly and sometimes cracked/ In the earley days a wood stove was necessary to prevent this. The head was placed on the stove to heat it up, get brazed up. then a large angle iron was bolted to the head to prevent warping. after the heads were finished they were left on the stove to cool down without warping. Next we angled them to clear the valves at hi lift. No I don't have a set, but the shop I have has a large oven that goes up to 2000 degs. now all I have to do is pay for it/
Gramps |
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