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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: central Iowa
Posts: 500
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Attempting to install Helicoil in head stud location. After drilling with the supplied drill, the supplied threading tap will not engage to start cutting threads. The block is in the car and I lubricated the drill and tap with cutting oil. We tapped lightly on the tap while turning it, but it will not engage. Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks. John
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#2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 7,305
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Would it help to chamfer the hole?
Charlie Stephens |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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I think a steady downwards pressure while you turn the tap would be better than "tapping the tap". If you chamfer the top of the hole, don't go overboard. Chamfer a little, try it and if you don't get anywhere, chamfer it a little more till you succeed. Personally though, I wouldn't chamfer it.
PS. It is important that the drill and tap are kept perpendicular tot he top of the block or the stud will not line up with its hole in the head.
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#4 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: 34.22 N 118.36 W
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Typically machining cast iron is done dry, no lube
J
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#5 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
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#6 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 1,808
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https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...rt#post1997462 |
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#7 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
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Synchro has a very important point. The Helicoil must be in the proper location and perpendicular to the block. I have used an old head for this, bolting it to the block and enlarging the hole where the Helicoil tap is used just enough. The head can still be used on an engine with the enlarged hole, if necessary.
I agree that a steady strong pressure is needed to start the tap. I also agree that the hole should be tapped dry. Tap a little then back out a half turn to clear the chips, then continue. Repeat to back out as you tap to continue to clear the chips.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Campbell,CA, USA
Posts: 395
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Helicoil taps come in plug and bottoming styles.
If you are trying to start a threaded hole with a bottoming style tap, it is very difficult. |
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#9 |
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: central Iowa
Posts: 500
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Worth considering. Thanks.
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Louvering, bias ply tire-truing, metal shaping and forming, lathe and mill work, member shop HAGERTY Ins. expert repair network. High quality paint work in Iowa. |
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#10 |
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: central Iowa
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PS. It is important that the drill and tap are kept perpendicular tot he top of the block or the stud will not line up with its hole in the head.
We did make and use a guide for that purpose. Thanks.
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#11 |
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Location: central Iowa
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Typically machining cast iron is done dry, no lube
We will try that. Thanks.
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#12 |
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: central Iowa
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I agree. I use a tap guide similar to this one to ensure the tap is pertpendicular to the top of the block (or whatever you are tapping https://www.amazon.com/GATOR-TOOLS-V...3351856&sr=8-5
Thank you. John
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#13 |
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: central Iowa
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This was my experience:
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...rt#post1997462 Thank you. This looks promising. John
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: central Iowa
Posts: 500
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#15 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Santee Calif.
Posts: 638
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Agreed with Terry, trying to start a bottoming tap in a freshly drilled hole is tough to do. might also check that the drill is the correct size for your Helicoil, even if it came as a "kit" things happen in packaging
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: central Iowa
Posts: 500
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Agreed with Terry, trying to start a bottoming tap in a freshly drilled hole is tough to do. might also check that the drill is the correct size for your Helicoil, even if it came as a "kit" things happen in packaging
Will check again. I know it isn't a bottoming tap. Thanks. John
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Louvering, bias ply tire-truing, metal shaping and forming, lathe and mill work, member shop HAGERTY Ins. expert repair network. High quality paint work in Iowa. |
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