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Old 11-17-2022, 06:18 PM   #1
busmania
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Default 40 dash and steering column removal issue?

I am trying to get the dash out of my car. I am stripping it down completely. I have all of the screws out (4 on top of dash, two on the left/right) but the two bolts holding the column have me stumped. I got one out, no problem. The other, appears to have a round head? These are the two bolts that are under the dash. Any help?

Here's a photo. As you can see, the one side (circled in red) is a totally round top.

dash12.jpg

I don't know why hte photos aren't posting. Here isa link to the photo. ok, got the photo there but its small. Here's the link for the full image.

https://imgur.com/gallery/5bUZWFJ

Last edited by busmania; 11-17-2022 at 06:26 PM.
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Old 11-17-2022, 06:48 PM   #2
Kube
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Default Re: 40 dash and steering column removal issue?

That is what Ford installed in that place. It was meant to have the hex head twisted off when tightened in place. Usually, a guy can grab this with a locking plier and get it out. It's a tedious process, but almost always works.
It may be easier for you to remove the instrument cluster and work through that opening.

If it really "stuck", you might consider welding a nut to the end of it. I have removed many of these and never needed to weld anything. Just some patience required.
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Old 11-17-2022, 07:07 PM   #3
busmania
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Default Re: 40 dash and steering column removal issue?

Thanks! Does it twist off like the bolt did or is it meant to break off? I have the instruments detached but not all disconnected from wiring and such. I’ll do that next before I proceed.
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Old 11-17-2022, 07:42 PM   #4
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Default Re: 40 dash and steering column removal issue?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by busmania View Post
Thanks! Does it twist off like the bolt did or is it meant to break off? I have the instruments detached but not all disconnected from wiring and such. I’ll do that next before I proceed.
That bolt was designed to have the head twist off upon installation. It was an anti-theft thing back in the day.

Treat it as you would any bolt that had been rounded off.

I find it easier, when possible, to work through the opening that is allowed when the gauge cluster has been removed.
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